Routes

 

Most Popular Routes

Zodiac VI 5.7 A3 or 5.13d
Tangerine Trip VI 5.7 A3
Mescalito VI 5.7 A3
North American Wall VI 5.8 A2 or C3+
Eagle's Way VI 5.8 A3
Shortest Straw VI 5.7 A4
Virginia VI 5.7 A3
Zenyatta Mondatta VI 5.7 A4
South Seas VI 5.8 A4
New Dawn VI 5.7 A3

All Routes (left to right)

Central Scrutinizer VI 5.11c A4+

FA:August 1988. Steve Grossman, Jay Ladin

The Real Nose VI 5.10 A4

FA:1984. Charles Cole, Steve Grossman

Tribal Rite VI 5.8 A4

FA:October 1978. Walter Rosenthal, Tom Carter, Alan Bard

New Dawn VI 5.7 A3

FA:June 1972. Charlie Porter

Genesis VI 5.10 A4

FA:May 1989. Doug Englekirk, Eric Brand,

Reticent Wall VI 5.7 A5

FA:November 1995. Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe, Laurie...

Mescalito VI 5.7 A3

FA:October 1973. Charlie Porter, Hugh Burton, Steve Sutton,...

Disorderly Conduct VI 5.9 A5

FA:May 1998. Warren Hollinger, Miles Smart, Bart Groendycke...

Martyr's Brigade VI 5.11 A5+

FA:2002. Jim Beyer

Wall of Early Morning Light VI 5.9 A3

FA:November 1970. Warren Harding, Dean Caldwell

Space VI 5.10 A4+

FA:July 1985. Charles Cole

South Seas VI 5.8 A4

FA:Sept. 1979. Bill Price, Charlie Row, Guy Thompson

Atlantis VI 5.8 A4+

FA:Sept. 2005. Dave Turner

Block Party VI 5.9 A4+

FA:June 2005. Dave Turner

Tempest VI 5.8 A4+

FA:June 1993. Brad Jarrett, Jeff Hornibrook, Cade Lloyd

Every Man for Himself VI A4

FA:May 1999. Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe, Mark Bowling

Pacific Ocean Wall VI 5.9 A4

FA:May 1975. Jim Bridwell, Bill Westbay, Jay Fiske, Fred...

Sea of Dreams VI 5.9 A4

FA:October 1978. Jim Bridwell, Dale Bard, Dave Diegelman

Ring of Fire VI 5.10 A5

FA:August 1996. Mark Smith, Richard Jensen

El Nino VI 5.13c A0

FA:October 1998. Alex and Thomas Huber

North American Wall VI 5.8 A2 or C3+

FA:October 1964. Royal Robbins, Tom Frost, Chuck Pratt, Yvon...

Nightmare on California Street VI 5.8 A5

FA:July 1998. Warren Hollinger, Grant Gardner

Wyoming Sheep Ranch VI 5.8 A4

FA:August 1984. Rob Slater, John Barbella

Continental Drift VI 5.10 A4

FA:November 1997. Steve Gerberding, Kevin Thaw, Conrad Anker...

Heartland VI 5.10 A4+

FA:August 1987. Eric Brand, John Barbella

New Jersey Turnpike VI 5.10 A4

FA:April 1977. Dale Bard, Hugh Burton, Ron Kauk, Bruce...

Gulf Stream VI 5.9 A5

FA:June 1999. Steve Gerberding, Jay Smith, John Harpole

Heavy Metal and Tinker Toys VI 5.9 A5

FA:July 1998. Jim Bridwell, Tyson Hausdoerffer, Boulos Ayad...

Atlantic Ocean VI 5.9 A4

FA:Sept. 1985. John Middendorf, John Barbella

Iron Hawk VI 5.9 A4

FA:October 1978. Dale Bard, Ron Kauk

Highway to Hell VI 5.9 A5

FA:October 1998. Gabor Berecz, Thomas Tivadar

Native Son VI 5.9 A4

FA:August 1987. Walt Shipley, Troy Johnson

Sticky Rice VI 5.6 A4

FA:May 2003. Kibum Lee, Kipum Kim

Scorched Earth VI 5.11 A4

FA:August 1987. Rob Slater, Randy Leavitt

Aurora VI 5.7 A4

FA:Sept. 1981. Greg Child, Peter Mayfield

Tangerine Trip VI 5.7 A3

FA:March 1973. Charlie Porter, J.P. de St. Croix

Virginia VI 5.7 A3

FA:July 1992. Chuck Clance, Steve Bosque

Ned's Excellent Adventure VI 5.10 A4+

FA:August 1998. Bryan Law, Warren Hollinger

Lost in America VI 5.10 A4

FA:June 1985. Greg Child, Randy Leavitt

Kaos VI 5.7 A4+

FA:April 1993. Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston

Zenyatta Mondatta VI 5.7 A4

FA:Sept. 1981. Jim Bridwell, Peter Mayfield, Charlie Row

Abstract Expressionist VI A5

FA:1996. Eric Kohl

Shortest Straw VI 5.7 A4

FA:March 1990. Rick Lovelace

Zodiac VI 5.7 A3 or 5.13d

FA:October 1972. Charlie Porter

FFA: October 2003. Alex and Thomas Huber

Surgeon General VI 5.9 A5

FA:May 1990. Walt Shipley, Eric Kohl

Slacker's Toil(Variation) VI 5.9 A5b

FA:May 25, 2001. Jim Beyer

Lunar Eclipse VI 5.7 A4

FA:July 1982. Steve Schneider, John Barbella

Born Under a Bad Sign VI 5.10 A5

FA:1979. Bill Price, Tim Washick

Plastic Surgery Disaster VI 5.8 A5

FA:June 1991. Eric Kohl

Bad Seed VI 5.9 A4

FA:October 1988. Bill Russell, Troy Johnson

Bad to the Bone VI 5.9+ A4

FA:August 1984. Jay Smith, Lidija Painkiher

The Prophet VI 5.13d

FA:October 2010. Leo Houlding, Jason Pickles

The Secret Passage VI 5.13d

FA:October 2008. Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva.

Eagle's Way VI 5.8 A3

FA:1976. Mark Chapman, Jim Orey

On the Waterfront VI 5.9 A5

FA:August 1986. Steve Bosque, Mike Corbett, Gwen Schneider...

High Plains Dripper VI 5.11 A5

FA:July 1989. Eric Kohl, Alan Humphrey

Pressure Cooker VI 5.10 A4

FA:July 1990. Eric Kohl

Get Whacked VI 5.10 A5

FA:June 1992. Eric Kohl

Waterfall Route VI 5.10 A4

FA:October 1975. Darryl Teske, T. Polk

Chinese Water Torture VI 5.11 A4

FA:July 1981. Jay Smith, Karl McConachie

Welcome to Afghanistan VI A5

FA:Spring 2001. Jim Beyer

Dark Star VI 5.10 A5

FA:November 1999. Jim Bridwell, Groaz Giavanni

Girdle Traverse VI 5.10a A4

FA:August 1998. Chris McNamara, Mark Melvin

Speed Records

Tangerine Trip

  • Partner: 10h:24mins - Ammon McNeely, Cedar Wright - Jul 2002
  • 18h:34mins - Steve Gerberding, Jay Smith, Scott Stowe - Aug 1991 ( first one day ascent )

Tribal Rite

  • Partner: 23h:33mins - Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe, Dave Bengston - Mar 1994 ( first one day ascent )

Eagle's Way

  • Partner: 09h:08mins - Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray - Aug 2004
  • Solo: 23h:51mins - Alik Berg - Aug 2005 ( first one day solo ascent )
  • 19h:38mins - Steve Gerberding, Troy Johnson, Melkonian - Jul 1990 ( first one day ascent )

Virginia

  • Partner: 17h:24mins - Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov, Gabe McNeely - Jul 2004
  • 23h:55mins - Erik Sloan, Jaimie Mundo, Dave Bainbridge - May 2005 ( first one day ascent )

Lunar Eclipse

  • Partner: 19h:58mins - Ammon McNeely, Jose Pereyra, Chongo - Jun 2001
  • 23h:24mins - Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe, Dave Bengston - Aug 1996 ( first one day ascent )

Kaos

  • Partner: 27h:50mins - Eric George, Jim Haden, Sean Leary - Dec 1999

Iron Hawk

  • Partner: 30h:42mins - Ammon McNeely, Cedar Wright - May 2004

Born Under a Bad Sign

  • Partner: 22h:22mins - Ammon McNeely, Eric Walden, Chris Van Luevan - Oct 2002 ( first one day ascent )

Plastic Surgery Disaster

  • Partner: 21h:37mins - Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray - Jun 2001 ( first one day ascent )

Mescalito

  • Partner: 23h:28mins - Dean Potter, Jose Pereyra, Russ Mitrovitch - Oct 1998 ( first one day ascent )

North American Wall

  • Partner: 09h:36mins - Timmy O'Neill, Miles Smart - Sep 14, 1999
  • 21h:48mins - Hans Florine, Mark Melvin, Conrad Anker - Sep 1996 ( first one day ascent )

Pressure Cooker

  • Partner: 23h:41mins - Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov - Sep 2004 ( first one day ascent )

Get Whacked

  • Partner: 12h:49mins - Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray - Jun 2001 ( first one day ascent )

Chinese Water Torture

  • Partner: 17h:15mins - Steve Schneider, Scott Stowe, Lance Allred - Jul 1994 ( first one day ascent )

New Jersey Turnpike

  • Partner: 14h:00m:02secs - Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray - Sep 2002
  • 16h:09mins - Hans Florine, Steve Schneider, Heather Baer - Jul 2001 ( first one day ascent )

Dark Star

  • Partner: 20h:09mins - Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe, Al Swanson - Jul 2002 ( first one day ascent--2nd ascent )

Atlantic Ocean

  • Partner: 23h:38mins - Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray - Aug 2004 ( first one day ascent )

Bad Seed

  • Partner: 19h:12mins - Hans Florine, Brian McCray, Wayne Willoughby - Sep 1998
  • 19h:50mins - Steve Gerberding, Scott Stowe, Dave Bengston - Oct 1995 ( first one day ascent )

Pacific Ocean Wall

  • Partner: 33h:02mins - Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov - May 2004

Shortest Straw

  • Partner: 17h:52mins - Russ Mitrovich, Eric George, Brett Dodds - Sep 1999 ( first one day ascent )

Aurora

  • Partner: 23h:55mins - Miles Smart, Brian McCray - Jul 1998 ( first one day ascent )

Zodiac

  • Partner: 01h:51m:34secs - Alex & Thomas Huber - Jul 2004
  • Solo: 11h:18mins - Nick Fowler - Nov 2002
  • 19hours - Rick Cashner, Werner Braun, Kevin Fosburg - Aug 1989 ( first one day ascent )
  • 17h:52mins - Steve Gerberding - Oct 1993 ( first one day solo ascent )

Reticent Wall

  • Partner: 34h:57mins - Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov, Dean Potter - Jul 2006

Zenyatta Mondatta

  • Partner: 22h:56mins - Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov, Kevin Jamarillo - Jun 27, 2005 ( first one day ascent )

New Dawn

  • Partner: 23h:50mins - Damian Benegas, Willie Benegas - Sep 1996 ( first one day ascent )

Waterfall Route

  • Partner: 18h:28mins - Hans Florine, Steve Schneider, Peter Coward - Oct 1997 ( first one day ascent )

On the Waterfront

  • Partner: 17h:07mins - Ammon McNeely, Skylar Detray - Jul 2009 ( first one day ascent )

Wall of Early Morning Light

  • Partner: 23h:43mins - Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray - Sep 2004 ( first one day ascent )

Lost in America

  • Partner: 18h:04mins - Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray - Aug 2004
  • 21h:31mins - Eric George, Russ Mitrovitch, Leo Houlding - Oct 1999 ( first one day ascent )

Native Son

  • Partner: 23h:53mins - Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov - May 2006 ( first one day ascent )

Wyoming Sheep Ranch

  • Partner: 29h:31mins - Eric George Russ Mitrovitch, Sean Leary - Oct 1999

Welcome to YosemiteBigwall.com!

YosemiteBigwall.com is a community space for collecting and sharing Yosemite Bigwall climbing information. This new website contains basic information about Yosemite Bigwall climbing routes(Washington Column, the Leaning Tower, and some El Cap routes at least ☺)—detailed topos, trip reports, photos, and route history—all available publicly, free-of-charge.

Till now, information about Yosemite bigwalls has been scattered across many websites, making it is difficult to find information about many(or most!) of the routes. A commercial interest or mentality has prevailed—routes that are popular and get climbed often are easy to find basic information for while routes that are seldom climbed languish in out-of-print guidebooks, in the notebooks of the first ascentionists, or are buried in ‘obscure’ sections of websites.

This is a community work in progress, and as they say, “it takes a village to raise a website” (or is that “a child?”), so please, jump on in and join the fun. If you pioneered one or more bigwall routes in Yosemite, please share information about your climb. If you climbed a bigwall route and found the topo to be inaccurate, or have photos, beta or stories you’d like to share, please do so. With your help, YosemiteBigwall.com will continue to develop into a community supported and run website for all Yosemite Bigwall beta—a true online Yosemite Bigwall library.


Contact Erik with any info/suggestions/updates: erik@yosemitebigwall.com

 

Book/website updates available at www.facebook.com/Yosemitebigwall

 

Special thanks to Tom Lambert(ultriaskier.com) for his sage advice/expertise, and to James McBryan(thetechscouts.com) for developing the site.

Thanks and enjoy the site,

Erik Sloan

 

[[wysiwyg_imageupload:136:]]
Erik Sloan is an Alaskan native, who lived and worked in Yosemite from 2002-2012, and has been bigwall climbing there since 1994. Erik has climbed El Cap over 80 times. He is the co-author of Supertopo’s Yosemite BigWalls 2nd edition, and the author of a community website for Wawona climbing: wawona.yosemitebigwall.com. Erik is currently working on a new, more comprehensive book project that will replace the now out-of-print Yosemite Climbs: BigWalls by George Meyers and Don Reid.