Intro/Strategy

Muir Wall is the endlessly splitter bigwall of your dreams. Just a few pitches are technically challenging, with most being incredible cam cracks(the first 10 pitches to Heart Ledges are notoriously circuitous and low angle aiding--not nearly as classic as the rest of the route. The route is a lot more complicated than the Nose or Salathe, however, because it doesn't have too much free climbing.The added logistics of spending a week on the wall make Muir Wall a poor choice for beginners, compared to say Zodiac or Tangerine Trip which are much more difficult technically but are about half the length. Muir Wall is a logical step up from any of the easier El Cap routes: Lurking Fear, Nose, Salathe, or Zodiac; it is perfect for those looking to spend develop confidence in their systems and equipment during a weeklong climb, without the added stress of more difficult aid pitches.

 

*Plan: Most folks fix a few pitches in half a day and then climb to Heart Ledge on their first full day bringing just day supplies, and descend the fixed ropes to the ground from Heart. Day two(2.5 really) is spent hauling up to Heart via the much more straight fixed lines and climbing to Mammoth or Grey Ledges. Most folks spend 5-7 days on the wall.

 

*Ledge: Muir visits some of El Cap's finest ledges, but you'll need a portaledge for the upper part.

 

*The Elements: Muir follows long crack systems which can become dangerous icy rivers when it rains, so make sure you have a solid longterm forecast before starting up. For this reason Muir is not the best choice in the early season(late April-May) when thundershowers/storms can be common.

Trip Reports

Trip Reports

History

Speed

1. Partner
19h:56mins
Brian McCray, Nels Davis
Jun 2001
23h:29mins
Hans Florine, Chris McNamara
Aug 1996 (first one day ascent)