Intro/Strategy

Never Never Land splits off after the first seven pitches of Aquarian Wall, following beautiful steep, thin cracks that make you dangle but never get too hard. NNL is a Yosemite classic(stunning,splitter) while Aquarian Wall is classic Yosemite(natural but awkward/wide/dirty in spots). The cruxes are a few thin piton placements.  Timbuktu Tower is as good as El Cap bivy ledges come. Never Never Land is a step up from Zodiac, or Ten Days After; it is similar in difficulty though longer than Electric Ladyland; it is technically easier though overall harder(longer) than Afroman or Re-Animator. 

 

*Plan: The lead bolts on pitches 3-6 are very far apart, so bring extended rivet hangers and a long (stiffened)quickdraw if you are less than 5'10" tall . Spend your first day hiking up your rack and ropes and fixing the first two pitches, and fixing straight down to the west edge of the Wings of Steel Slab(thus avoiding dragging all your bivy gear down, around and up the 3rd class section of the approach), and hiking the rest of your stuff up and maybe hauling. After that, most parties spend 3-5 days on the wall. Most parties find it difficult to make Timbuktu Tower their first night if they did not haul their bags the day they fixed. If you can spend an extra day on Timbuktu Tower you will live longer and smile more.

 

*Ledge: Timbuktu Tower and Thanksgiving Ledge are incredible bivies. The rest of the route is steep with some hanging belays, so bring a belay seat.

 

*The Elements: Never Never Land is obviously no place to be in a winter storm. There is a rappel route down from Timbuktu Tower trends a little west but generally heads straight down.

History

Speed

1. Partner
16h:00m:02secs
Ammon McNeely, Chris McNamara
Aug 2004 (first one day ascent)