Intro/Strategy

264 The Nose is a fantasy bigwall in solid granite form. Minutes from the car, splitter (after the first four pitches to Sickle Ledge) with ample ledges, great exposure, incredible views, The Nose has it all. Climbing The Nose will make you want to climb The Nose again, and again. It's that good. The Nose after Sickle Ledge is nearly all straightforward/easy aid with plenty of 5.7-5.9 glory free climbing, compared with Salathe Wall which has continuous trickier aid and free and more spread out bivy ledges. The first four pitches have become polished over the years and are very challenging with flaring placements. So know that they are not at all representative of the rest of the route, which is secure, splitter, and terrifyingly exposed. Go For It! 

 

 

*Plan: Most parties fix to Sickle their first day and immediately begin to question whether or not they're up for the challenges of the Nose. Don't worry, the going gets much more straightforward/easy a couple pitches higher when you enter the Stovelegs. Commonly, a lot of theorizing goes on between parties who are fixing to Sickle, often with each party trading ideas of when they will start up the next day and when the other parties should start to ensure that everyone does not show up at the base of the fixed lines at the same time. In my experience these well laid plans almost never pan out.

 

Always remember these basic Yosemite bigwall rules:

 

1.The person/team climbing and hauling on the route first is the one on the route first that day, and this is very often not the team who fixed their lines first the day before. (this means that it doesn't matter when you fix to Sickle, if you're motivated to get up at 4am and you're the first one to Sickle and climbing, then you're first on the route. It sounds good to accommodate each party and to work together so each party starts in a certain order and everyone is not stuck at one belay; in reality things often do not go as planned, plans change, or parties who are not planning on fixing climb ahead and prevent/complicate the ability of parties who have fixed ropes to start climbing. Fixing ropes is handy, but on The Nose it can make things complicated too). 

2. Bigwalls are complicated so if a party says they are planning on starting at 5am it is likely that they will start much later.

3. Your best bet if fixing ropes is to get to your lines a little earlier than you planned, so you have time to relax and deal with any unforseen complications.

Most parties spend 3 nights on the wall and a night on the top.

 


*Ledge: Dolt and El Cap Tower are topnotch bivies. Sickle, Camp 4, and Camp 5 are fairly sloping considering that parties bivy on them nearly everyday in season. If planning on slowboating this route a portaledge would make these ledges a lot more enjoyable for sleeping. That said, most parties fix to Sickle so only have to deal with one night at a sloping ledge on Camp 4 or Camp 5.

 

*The Elements: Lower down the Nose gets Sun by 9am, after the Great Roof the Sun hits late morning. Rappeling the Nose is straight forward if it's a sunny day and you don't have a haulbag, but that is rarely the circumstances under which people are rappeling. The deep cracks of the Nose become icy rivers in storms, making going up or down very difficult. Bring a portalege w/ fly if there is weather forecasted and start rappeling early if you think you are going to need to bail because of weather.

Summit Register

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Speed Record

02h:23m:46secs
Hans Florine, Alex Honnold
Jun 17, 2012

Solo Record

05h:49mins
Alex Honnold
Jun 22, 2010
  • Oct 04, 2016 3 days -- Erik Sloan, Jim Reynolds, David Prough
    So much fun up on the Big Stone! Climbed through a small storm the first day - had the route to ourselves. Woot!
  • Sep 04, 2016 3 days -- Trevor Violette, Cameron S.
    Awesome time with Cam! El Cap Tower by 6p on Friday. A party of 3 Brits were there and had fixed to the top of the Boot. We used their lines to pass in the morning. I took the King Swing and made it on attempt #2. Was just a foot or two too high on the first go. Stayed at Camp V and fixed a pitch for the following day. Topped out at 3pm. What an amazing route!
  • Aug 21, 2016 15hours -- Erik Sloan, Marek Jakubowski
    So good - was Marek's first time. Woot Woot!
  • Jun 20, 2016 20h:55mins -- Adam Freund, Gina Edwards
    NIAD! Proposed on the summit (she said yes!).
  • Mar 19, 2016 09h:49mins -- Erik Sloan, Schuyler Collet
    So good up there!
  • Nov 07, 2015 19hours -- Dylan K, Karsten
  • Aug 12, 2015 08h:30mins -- Erik Sloan, Robbie Brown
    Awesome time on the High Seas!
  • Aug 12, 2015 08h:03mins -- Robbie Brown, Erik Sloan
    First time climbing with Erik. I led to dolt and from texas to camp 5! Amazing Day!
  • Jul 09, 2015 2.5 days -- Owen Murphy, Eric Hires
    mmmMMMMmmm
  • Jun 19, 2015 14hours -- Will Masterman, Hans Florine, James Williams
    Apart from some Spaniards at camp 5 we had the route to ourselves!
  • Jun 14, 2015 6 days -- kevin jones, Casey Chew
    Our first wall!!
  • Jun 14, 2015 2.5 days -- Steven Tata, Madison G.
  • Apr 16, 2015 4 days 22hours -- Jessie Tan, Zach Shehabi
    Awesome first trip up the Nose for team Detroit! Kicked it in the Meadow afterward with Erik, GW and Dave from NC, and Ari and Danny from Oakland!
  • Mar 16, 2015 07h:55mins -- Erik Sloan, Roger Putnam
    Another awesome day on the Nose with Rog!
  • Mar 16, 2015 07h:55mins -- Roger Putnam, Erik Sloan
  • Feb 20, 2015 05h:59mins -- Erik Sloan, Roger Putnam
    Wow the Nose is amazing. We replaced an old bolt on the traverse to Camp 4, an old quarter-incher with a Leeper hanger. Viva La Nariz!
  • Feb 20, 2015 05h:59mins -- Roger Putnam, Erik Sloan
    Got to lead every pitch and help Erik do some maintenance. Thanks, Erik for an amazing experience!
  • Oct 29, 2014 2 days 11h:51mins -- Adam Freund, Gina Edwards
    Had a blast! Day 1: Started @ 5:12am with the haulbag at the start of the route (didn't fix beforehand). Made it to Dolt Tower by 3?pm (our planned first night) and decided to continue to Eagle Ledge. Opted to take the Jardine Traverse. Arrived at Eagle Ledge in the dark. It was smaller than we had hoped for. Day 2: Started climbing in daylight and then let Mayan Smith-Gobat and Libby Sauter pass, while going for what would become the new woman's speed record (which they broke again a few days later). We had to wait for them to pass a whole 2 minutes! Pretty cool to watch. Made it to Camp V before dark and had a super comfortable night there. Day 3: Started climbing in daylight and topped out at the tree with Gina, the pig and the ropes and 5:03pm, a day earlier than we had planned. Notes: -Didn't place a single nut! -No hooks or camhooks used except for one unneeded grappling hook placement on the Jardine Traverse, where I should have free climbed. -Adam lead and hauled every pitch, while Gina speed-seconded like a seasoned pro, while carrying extra water for the first two days to make hauling easier. -Rack: 3x .1 to #2 Camalots, 2x #3 and #4, 1x 000 C3. 1x each X4 offset. This rack worked perfectly and I never desired to have more of a certain size, and used every cam at least once. Could definitely be safely done with less gear, but this rack made it very comfortable. Led with a 70m 10.1 and hauled with a 60m 10.1.
  • Oct 07, 2014 4 days -- nkane, Amanda
    Soooo goooood
  • Sep 2014 12hours -- Ryan Baker, Josh McClure
  • Jun 11, 2014 17h:48m:31secs -- Robbie Brown, Cory Donavon
    Lead from ground to el cap tower on 1 rack in 4:45. Cory put us on camp five at around 13:30 and i finished up before the 18 hour mark.
  • May 01, 2014 08hours -- Erik Sloan, Roger Putnam
    Victory Lap for our new bigwall book! Woohoo to the greatest climb in the world! Met a couple guys from Austria rappelling from Camp 5, said they summited a couple days before but couldn't find the descent route, haha
  • May 01, 2014 08hours -- Roger Putnam, Erik Sloan
    Victory lap! A casual 8 hour romp including a sit-down lunch at camp 6 and some anchor maintenance. Viva the Nose!
  • Apr 17, 2014 2.5 days -- Roger Putnam, Greg Stock
    It was Greg's first time on a less steep El Cap route. So much fun for the both of us. The Nose never gets old!
  • Oct 12, 2013 09hours -- Keenan Waeschle, Brad
  • Sep 26, 2013 07h:42mins -- Erik Sloan, Roger Putnam
    Woohoo!
  • Sep 26, 2013 07h:42mins -- Roger Putnam, Erik Sloan
    Our 2nd time climbing together. Erik provided the strategy to get this done fast! Can't wait to climb it again!
  • Sep 19, 2013 14h:30mins -- Ben Lepesant, max d, jorg v
    good fun. double ropes and a tag line to haul with .. lots of rope clusters.
  • Sep 01, 2013 1.5 days -- mickey sensenbach, aaron stireman
    we tried to do a NIAD but turned into 31 hours. I had to lead about 90% and there was hardcore smoke and it even breifly rained! I feel like I have been hit by a bus! still really fun and cant wait to get back!
  • Aug 24, 2013 20h:21m:20secs -- Leslie Choong, Vincent Casotti
    First time to the top of El Cap!
  • Aug 20, 2013 2.5 days -- Robbie Brown, Nick Wienman
    Lead and hauled every pitch while teaching nick how to jumar! Finally climbed El Cap!
  • Jul 2013 2.5 days -- mickey sensenbach, jaysen henderson
  • Jun 22, 2013 3 days -- Erik Sloan, Brian Paulson, Taylor Sincich
    Awesome trip up the Big Stone with two close friends. Mouse had eaten a hole on one side of the portaledge, but we covered it with a pad each night and slept lightly. Woot!
  • Jun 2013 3.5 days -- Jarad Stiles, Justin Cory, Scott Rice
  • Jun 2013 3.5 days -- Justin Cory, Jarad Stiles, Scott Rice
  • May 13, 2013 4 days -- John Greer, James Barnett
  • May 08, 2013 3 days -- Joe Marlay
  • May 2013 2.5 days -- Brandon Adams, Cam Zachreson
    First time on El Cap. Awesome time.
  • Apr 17, 2013 4 days -- alex peters, Philipp Peters
    (2 bivvis)
  • Nov 06, 2012 21h:50mins -- Ryan Baker, Emory Capps
  • Oct 27, 2012 3 days -- Adam Long, Paul Allen
    Perfect weather and had all of The Nose to ourselves.
  • Aug 2012 2.5 days -- Erik Sloan, Josh Thompson
    So much fun!
  • Jul 15, 2012 14hours -- Will Masterman, Hans Florine, Jeanette Renneberg
    Got dragged up the Nose by my mentor! One of my best days in the mountains.
  • Jun 2012 4 days -- Jarad Stiles, Justin Cory
  • Jun 2012 4 days -- Justin Cory, Jarad Stiles
  • Aug 2011 3 days -- Ryan Baker, Matt Bento
    First time up Nose!
  • Jun 08, 2011 12h:30mins -- Roger Putnam, Mark Grundon
    I cant stop doing this route...simply amazing!
  • Sep 12, 2010 14h:30mins -- Roger Putnam, Jesse Chakrin
    First NIAD....soooo cool!
  • Aug 2010 3 days -- Erik Sloan, Jesse Lynch
    First Vibram Five Fingers ascent of El Cap! My buddy Jesse had never climbed a bigwall. I don't know what I was thinking,hahhahha, but we got through it and had some fun. So beautiful being on El Cap. Sleeping on Camp 4 was pretty grim though. Woohoo!
  • Jul 2010 11h:15mins -- Erik Sloan, Josh McClure
    It was a hot 97 degrees, but we started early and had a blast. We pasted three Koreans on top of Texas Flake who had ropes and a leader up higher at Eagle Ledge. Before we topped out we heard a big rockfall from the Nose and heard people screaming. When we got down we found out the Korean leader had pulled off a large flake that you used to climb up at the beginning of the pitch to Camp 4--was a six foot tall flake that was stuck in the crack and you climbed on it. Guess it broke the fella's leg and almost cut his rope but he was able to be rescued as was the rest of the team the next day.
  • Jun 04, 2010 21h:30mins -- Tim Klein, Jason Wells
    Nose twice IAD......Hey it's the Nose!!! 8:10 the first round 10:05 the second 21:30 total time
  • Jun 2010 11h:35mins -- Erik Sloan, Nate Beckwith
  • May 13, 2010 13h:17mins -- Brian Gallant, Hans Florine
  • Sep 2009 12h:45mins -- Tom Lambert, Hans Florine
    So much fun - I just jugged behind the master, but it was a blast.
  • Jul 12, 2009 2.5 days -- David Allfrey, Scott Lappin
    First El Cap route. Alone (mostly) on the wall in July. A great time.
  • May 12, 2009 5.5 days -- Parker Kempf, nathan mlot
  • Oct 31, 2008 3 days -- Erik Sloan, Kevin Kuhns
  • Sep 28, 2008 3.5 days -- Roger Putnam, Eric Grove
    First Nose trip. Really fun times
  • Sep 2008 3 days -- Neil Chelton, Callum
  • Aug 2008 3 days -- Ben Lepesant, W.P.
    best climb ever. 95+ degrees everyday, some suffering for sure. but the history, the climbing, the line and the position are the best.
  • May 14, 2008 3 days -- Erik Sloan, Logan Talbot
  • Apr 27, 2008 3 days -- Erik Sloan, Richie Copeland
  • May 30, 2007 2.5 days -- Dave Clendenan, Brock Wilson
    First El Cap route. Good Times!!!
  • May 09, 2007 1.5 days -- Erik Sloan, Mike Haag
  • Jun 25, 2005 14hours -- Erik Sloan, Micah Dash
  • Jun 2005 4 days -- Erik Sloan, Jay Selvidge, Leo Burk
  • Oct 2004 3.5 days -- Dominic Oughton, Jim Trueman
  • Jun 2003 4 days -- francesco gherlenda, gigi possamai
    Ours first route
  • May 2003 4.5 days -- Matt de Vaal, Dave Harbourne
    1st BW on the Captain
  • Sep 2001 1 day -- Jacek Czyz, Jacek Krawczyk
    first all Polish team NIAD
  • Jun 2000 3.5 days -- Anthony Lobay, Jon Cannon
  • Aug 1999 3 days 00h:00m:02secs -- Jacques Lepesant, David Fessaguet, G Schneider
  • Apr 15, 1994 3 days -- T M, mark ?
  • Jun 1988 12hours -- Paul Gagner, Tom Davies
  • Jun 1987 15hours -- Paul Gagner, Steve "Lucky" Smith
  • Aug 1985 3 days -- Ken Bokelund, Rob foster
  • Sep 03, 1984 3.5 days -- Umberto Villotta, "Popi" Miotti
    My first wall "bigwall style", run out of water&food!
  • Jun 1979 2.5 days -- Paul Gagner, Rick Harlin
    Two sets of stoppers and two sets of hexes - yee haw

Trip Reports

Trip Reports

Date Climbed Trip Report Posted By
2013-04 Nose bail. Top of the Boot! mickey sensenbach
2013-09 Ive been hit by a train!!! mickey sensenbach
2008-04 Nose 2x April/May '08 erik sloan

History

Speed

1. Partner
02h:23m:46secs
Hans Florine, Alex Honnold
Jun 17, 2012
1. Solo
05h:49mins
Alex Honnold
Jun 22, 2010
1. Free
11hours
Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden
Oct 2005
15hours
John Long, Jim Bridwell, Billy Westbay
Jun 21, 1975 (first one day ascent)
23hours
Lynn Hill, Steve Sutton
Sep 19, 1994 (first one day free ascent)
09h:17mins
Peter Croft, John Bachar
Jun 1986 (first one day Nose+Half Dome linkup)
23hours
Steve Schneider
May 1990 (first one day solo ascent)
12h:59mins
Dean Potter
Jul 1999 (first solo one day Nose+Half Dome linkup)