Intro/Strategy

264 The Nose is a fantasy bigwall in solid granite form. Minutes from the car, splitter (after the first four pitches to Sickle Ledge) with ample ledges, great exposure, incredible views, The Nose has it all. Climbing The Nose will make you want to climb The Nose again, and again. It's that good. The Nose after Sickle Ledge is nearly all straightforward/easy aid with plenty of 5.7-5.9 glory free climbing, compared with Salathe Wall which has continuous trickier aid and free and more spread out bivy ledges. The first four pitches have become polished over the years and are very challenging with flaring placements. So know that they are not at all representative of the rest of the route, which is secure, splitter, and terrifyingly exposed. Go For It! 

 

 

*Plan: Most parties fix to Sickle their first day and immediately begin to question whether or not they're up for the challenges of the Nose. Don't worry, the going gets much more straightforward/easy a couple pitches higher when you enter the Stovelegs. Commonly, a lot of theorizing goes on between parties who are fixing to Sickle, often with each party trading ideas of when they will start up the next day and when the other parties should start to ensure that everyone does not show up at the base of the fixed lines at the same time. In my experience these well laid plans almost never pan out.

 

Always remember these basic Yosemite bigwall rules:

 

1.The person/team climbing and hauling on the route first is the one on the route first that day, and this is very often not the team who fixed their lines first the day before. (this means that it doesn't matter when you fix to Sickle, if you're motivated to get up at 4am and you're the first one to Sickle and climbing, then you're first on the route. It sounds good to accommodate each party and to work together so each party starts in a certain order and everyone is not stuck at one belay; in reality things often do not go as planned, plans change, or parties who are not planning on fixing climb ahead and prevent/complicate the ability of parties who have fixed ropes to start climbing. Fixing ropes is handy, but on The Nose it can make things complicated too). 

2. Bigwalls are complicated so if a party says they are planning on starting at 5am it is likely that they will start much later.

3. Your best bet if fixing ropes is to get to your lines a little earlier than you planned, so you have time to relax and deal with any unforseen complications.

Most parties spend 3 nights on the wall and a night on the top.

 


*Ledge: Dolt and El Cap Tower are topnotch bivies. Sickle, Camp 4, and Camp 5 are fairly sloping considering that parties bivy on them nearly everyday in season. If planning on slowboating this route a portaledge would make these ledges a lot more enjoyable for sleeping. That said, most parties fix to Sickle so only have to deal with one night at a sloping ledge on Camp 4 or Camp 5.

 

*The Elements: Lower down the Nose gets Sun by 9am, after the Great Roof the Sun hits late morning. Rappeling the Nose is straight forward if it's a sunny day and you don't have a haulbag, but that is rarely the circumstances under which people are rappeling. The deep cracks of the Nose become icy rivers in storms, making going up or down very difficult. Bring a portalege w/ fly if there is weather forecasted and start rappeling early if you think you are going to need to bail because of weather.

Trip Reports

Trip Reports

Date Climbed Trip Reportsort icon Posted By
2013-09 Ive been hit by a train!!! mickey sensenbach
2008-04 Nose 2x April/May '08 erik sloan
2013-04 Nose bail. Top of the Boot! mickey sensenbach

History

Speed

1. Partner
02h:23m:46secs
Hans Florine, Alex Honnold
Jun 17, 2012
1. Solo
05h:49mins
Alex Honnold
Jun 22, 2010
1. Free
11hours
Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden
Oct 2005
15hours
John Long, Jim Bridwell, Billy Westbay
Jun 21, 1975 (first one day ascent)
23hours
Lynn Hill, Steve Sutton
Sep 19, 1994 (first one day free ascent)
09h:17mins
Peter Croft, John Bachar
Jun 1986 (first one day Nose+Half Dome linkup)
23hours
Steve Schneider
May 1990 (first one day solo ascent)
12h:59mins
Dean Potter
Jul 1999 (first solo one day Nose+Half Dome linkup)