Intro/Strategy

266 "The Reg" is an odyssey up one of the Valley's coolest cliffs, with unbelievable backcountry views and vibe. There's even a good flowing spring (till late season) 8' from the base of the route! North facing, and topping out at almost 9000', HD is more of a Summer/Fall route. It is a beginner wall in the sense that there is no really tricky aid, even if you only climb 5.9. HD is more of an alpine wall, with a grueling 2.5 hr--half day approach and loose/impossible hauling that forces people to go fast and light. The cruxes are a couple awkward/tricky moves on the Robbins Traverse and on the pitch after Thank God Ledge. While there are a couple dozen routes up HD's Northwest Face, only The Reg sees any regular traffic with 2-3 parties on the route most days from mid-May to mid-October. Get in solid 5.9/5.10 free climbing shape and this will be awesome fun.

 

*Plan: Plan on some logistical figuring as there will most likely be other people attempting this climb when you arrive. Luckily, unlike The Nose most parties on Half Dome have a similar strategy of fixing and blasting early in the morning, so it is easier to enjoy fixing and bivying together. One day ascents, especially after fixing two or three pitches the day before, are the norm because the approach is so gueling that most novices opt for beginner climbs closer to the Valley floor. Most parties hike up and fix a couple pitches the first day, and filter water at the base; then you can climb fast and light to Big Sandy or the top with the second jugging with a pack(best way) or spend two nights on the wall hauling. It takes less than an hour to get from the Summit back down to the base of the Route.

 

*Approach: Once the slabs approach is free of snow/water in Spring that is the best way, with only a couple 5.6 sections that always have fixed ropes to hand over hand up. The Mist or John Muir Trails, which you leave at the shoulder of the rock and skirt along the wall on an obvious talus trail, is long and arduous but safer if the slabs are still wet.


*Ledge: There is a poor, sloping ledge up and left from the sixth belay. Big Sandy, at pitch 17, is comfy for 4+. Big Sandy and the Summit are at over 8000' elevation so if you're going fast and light, but planning on bivying at either spots, bring a space blanket bivy sac(and 1/2 a sleeping pad) or similar as it is very cold at night.

 

*The Elements: The Reg goes in the Sun early/mid afternoon to sunset. Half Dome is the site of many a mid-Summer hail/thunderstorm, so bringing a synthetic puffy jacket on the climb even if you're doing it in a day is advisable. 

 

 

 

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Speed Record

01h:53m:25secs
Hans Florine, Jim Herson
Oct 1999

Solo Record

02h:09mins
Alex Honnold
Jun 22, 2010
  • Jun 02, 2015 14hours -- Steven Tata, Madison G.
  • May 03, 2015 20h:30mins -- Christian Cattell, Connor Britts
    21 hours base to summit! First time on the route and moved the whole time! Stoked!! Pitch 21 is definitely one hell of a lot trickier than I expected.
  • Sep 25, 2014 1 day 11hours -- Jessie Tan, Pat Ronan
    Amazing route and partner!! Stayed the night on Big Sandy, and made the summit the following afternoon. Mega classic!!!
  • Jul 05, 2014 14h:15mins -- Dylan K, Dennis
    lead all pitches
  • Jun 21, 2014 06h:50mins -- Roger Putnam, Harrison Forrester
    Harrison's first grade VI in a push. Not a bad one!
  • May 17, 2014 10h:30mins -- Will Masterman, Peter Coward
    First time climbing with Peter. Excellent route and beautiful weather
  • Aug 12, 2013 1.5 days -- alex peters, Philipp Peters
  • Jun 2013 1 day 17hours -- mickey sensenbach
    too much fixed gear on the zig zags!
  • Oct 21, 2012 18hours -- Will Masterman, Jay Renneberg
    Watching the sunset after topping out is one of my fondest memories. RIP Jay Renneberg
  • Sep 16, 2012 13hours -- Leslie Choong, Vincent Casotti
  • Aug 12, 2012 22hours -- Chris Kohler, Justin Cory
  • Aug 2012 21hours -- Justin Cory, Chris Kohler
  • Jul 15, 2012 2 days -- Robbie Brown, Dylan Leppert
    Hell of a fight. First time jugging, aid leading, sleeping on a wall, ect...
  • Jul 2012 1 day 10hours -- Justin Cory, Trevor Roosen
  • Jul 29, 2011 2 days -- Matt Desenberg, Bryce Breslin
  • Jun 24, 2011 19hours -- Ryan Baker, Matt Bento
    First time on the route for both of us, awesome climb! Got a little hung up on the seventh pitch doing a little route finding, Matt's first time on top...no need to ascend the cables, ever.
  • Jun 2011 2 days -- Jarad Stiles, Scott Rice
  • Jul 16, 2010 0.5 days 15h:40mins -- Adam Long, Angelo Angelili
  • Jun 30, 2009 1 day -- Roger Putnam, Eric Grove
  • Jul 05, 2008 2 days -- John Greer, Tahn, Alberto F.
    Great first wall. mad running dash down to catch the last bus for steak and beer.
  • Jun 2008 1.5 days -- David Allfrey, Matt Touchette
  • Aug 2003 13hours -- Tom Lambert, Theresa
    Big Sandy in about seven hours, and then there was a party ahead of us. We weren't in a hurry, so we stayed behind them until Thank God Ledge. Topped out and ran down to the base to get stashed gear. Theresa didn't want to do the Death Slabs b/c it was starting to get dark, so humped back up to the shoulder and down the trail. Brutal. We actually just crashed out and slept for a bit right on the trail.
  • Jun 26, 2000 12 days -- Erik Sloan, Sal(sa) Wilson
  • Jun 2000 1 day -- Jacek Czyz, Jacek Krawczyk
  • Oct 1999 1.5 days -- I P, RM
  • Sep 09, 1999 3 days -- David Brendgard, Erica Spohn
    First wall, we hauled, not as bad hauling as everyone makes it out to be. Lots of free in the 5.10 range. Big Sandy is so great, awesome views of the valley. We took the trail in and out, big pain! Loved the route and the history, can't beat the location. In '99 we could have gone with one set cams and one set stoppers, many fixed pieces. I was glad I had a big cam on the 5.7 entry to the chimneys! Thank God Ledge was a blast. Spent the night on top to wake up to excellent sunrise over the High Sierra.
  • Jul 1998 2 days -- Anthony Lobay, Micah Ledbetter
  • Jun 1997 1.5 days -- T M, Lauri Werling
  • Jun 1995 2 days -- Anthony Lobay, Frank Rodgers
  • Oct 1990 2.5 days -- Oszkár Nádasdi, G. Babcsán, G. Péterváry, I. Sugár
  • Jun 1989 1.5 days -- Umberto Villotta, Oscar Meloni
  • Jul 1985 3 days -- Ken Bokelund, Rob Foster
  • Jun 1983 08hours -- Paul Gagner, Don't remember
  • Jun 1977 2.5 days -- I P, JF, IT

Trip Reports

History

Speed

1. Partner
01h:53m:25secs
Hans Florine, Jim Herson
Oct 1999
1. Solo
02h:09mins
Alex Honnold
Jun 22, 2010 (El Cap+Half Dome solo linkup)