Half Dome Northwest Face » Tis sa ack » A Classic Finally Ready: Tissack Rebolting Mission

A Classic Finally Ready: Tissack Rebolting Mission

It took two tries but I recently completed a (mostly complete) rebolting mission on the Half Dome megaclassic Tis sa ack. Much kudos and thanks to my partners Gabe and Elspie Mange (first attempt) and Ryan Baker! Climbing this route was awesome fun. Knowing that it had a history of bad bolts from the first ascent, it felt especially good to fix something up that had been hurting since 1969! I'll be selling some of the super classic first ascent bolts that we removed from the route to help offset the $600-$800 I spent outfitting the route, so stay tuned for that auction(and send any donations via PayPayl to yosemiteerik@gmail.com).

 

Folks familiar with the story of Tis sa ack (here is a great thread that includes the article Robbins wrote about the climb http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=856536&tn=0&mr=0) know that it was an epic first ascent. Climbed before cams, the many 2-6" cracks on the route were nearly impossible for the FA team (and the first several repeating teams!), requiring stacked pitons and other shenanigans that modern climbers would shudder at. This is also a rare climb where the first ascent party placed poor bolts, because they ran out and had to reuse the few they had.

 

Tis sa ack is an awesome moderate route that goes right up the middle of Half Dome. The climbing is mostly cam cracks, with the occasional loose flake, free section, or thin/hook move. It is easier than the Zodiac but probably the same difficulty overall because of some loose rock and the logistics of doing a longer climb in an alpine setting. It might be better compared to the Prow - like two Prows stacked on top of each other. The cruxes are a couple hook or thin pin placements. Tissack is likely the longest route on the face (except for the Girdle), starting two pitches below the level of the Regular route.

 

 

Here's the latest topo:

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237 pitch one

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tesia styling the clean on P1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

238 Dorm

 

 

 

 

I don't know where Royal Robbins went to college, but the Dormitory is deluxe!

 

254

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The most famous feature on HD - The Zebra! Totally splitterlicious!

239 Zeb

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

240 zebra

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Moai!

241 Moai

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Club Joy!

242

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The (formerly) bad bolt ladder near the top

245

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Maze!

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Summit!

255

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In The Shadow Of The Dome

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249

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bigwall Dreamin!

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Route: 
Date: 
2015-04