This is my Lost World love story.

It’s a typically love story--a brief encounter with my buddy Alik when we climb the route in 30 hour push.

First light start


Tom picked me up leading the sixth pitch.



CJ(Canadian Jesus) stylin over the Triangle Roof



Check out the A3 Slime on Hole World



Alik led through the Anus and into the night



Alas it was over all too quick and all I could dream about was that sweet mellow crusin, Le Cap style. I remembered how the FAist had followed an impeccable ethic of putting hangers on every single bolt, but 35 years had done it’s trick on the poor things.



Winter came and I needed a project to check the rehab status of my recently broken ankle. I hiked up to see how she looked:



Everything looked dry!



Lost World in yellow Squeeze Play in Red



I’m no soloist so it was fun to pretend for a few pitches.

Third pitch thin-ness





Old became new





Feeling the love




Spending weeks hiking up and fixing ropes/replacing bolts the beautiful gold corner of Squeeze Play caught my eye.The ankle was feeling good so I convinced Donny and Mike that with enough beer anything was possible



Mike heading up the first pitch of Squeeze



Donny did the cleanin



Courage was everywhere and the climbing was dreamy/pretty casual



Aliens. Yosemite bigwall bitchenness.



Lost World is fun but the Holy Grail corner on Squeeze Play is splitter--and it comes with ledges



Mike leading the dream



starting up the thin, fun “Test Your Mettle” pitch with MIke belaying/hauling and Donny cleaning



The Holy Grail, the last gold corner on the Southwest Face of El Cap, is good, times livin



Once you’ve sent all the pitches that require courage, you can drink courage for breakfast



Wowza those water lines are pretty in the winter



A big ledge after a couple days of hangin aint bad either(Donny and I take it in while Mike lead’s the 11th pitch)



The runoff on the upper pitches of Lurking Fear can be a little fearsome in the winter/spring



BBRRRR



Funny thing how the rewards always dwarf the suffering on walls—after a couple wet pitches we hit Thanksgiving ledge and the good times roll





The slabs on the top out are pretty sick challenging when wet



Winter/Spring summit bliss



Bigwall haulbag glissading--easy on the knees!



So this is where my love story gets a little strange, like it should have been over but I just couldn’t let go. I found myself dreaming of just one more time.

I mean, what’s a love story without flowers over an idyllic view



besides, there were only a few more bolts to replace in the middle of Lost World and it would be(almost) all new.

Richie always livens up the party



Logan was just psyched to be on the wall



I got to lead the 5th this time, which is a fun one



Logan leading through the slime as Richie and I stagger at the natural belay. Ahh, natural belays on bigwalls--guess you gotta do everything once in a while.



Richie beakin it up to the Trangle Roof



Hangin it out at the roof





Richie, scopin some butts on the Salathe. ‘Dude, I don’t think that just because they have pony-tails they’re girls’



Richie on the last pitch before joining West Buttress



Lurking Fear in season--getting some action



before we knew it we were taking in the views from the top






A couple teams climbed Lost World later this spring and said they liked it.

Here’s an updated topo



to download as a pdf:

[url=http://cid-ac7b92e4a1d5c148.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Lost%20World%20Final-1.pdf]http://cid-ac7b92e4a1d5c148.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Lost%20World%20Final-1.pdf[/url]

Some parting shots

What’s it like up there in the winter?



1975 gear



Ahhhh, Le Cap....Always new Love.






Date: 
2008-10