Disclaimer: we didn’t free the Pegasus route but liked the name better.

September was as sweaty as ever when Logan agreed to do a push. We wanted to do something neither us had done which knocked out a lot of the easier contenders. El Cap was shining in our dreams but I suggested maybe we should try something different. I had been wanting to climb Quarter Dome for a few years(JAB and I went back to climb it in ’94 but lost our psyche on the approach and climbed Watkins instead, which is pretty easy to have happen if you carry too much stuff.). Logan took a look at the topo and agreed it looked worthy.
We had two days, and getting beta about the climb wasn’t that easy. Ansel Evans had attempted it three times back in the early 70s, said the first half was good. Unfortunately a major rockfall fell onto the third-fifth pitches several years back. So we decided to hike up Monday afternoon and bivy somewhere on the approach or at the base. We ended up sleeping halfway up the talus approach to the base because it got dark. The base of the route has an incredible looking bivy.
Tuesday morning we started up the last bit of the approach before light. We missed a major traverse right and committed to much 5.4munge slabs before arriving at a steep corner at the base of the buttress the route starts off of. Doh! Logan led a 200’ 5.9 pitch to get us up to the true base. We started the route proper just after 8 am, feeling silly for getting lost and taking so much time. Fortunately the first half is all freeclimbing and Logan fired it in style. The second half’s free and aid took me a bit longer but we made the top right at dark. It was 90 degrees that day and we only had one hour of sun. Deluxe! Pegasus is such a sweet route. Awesome climb with tons of 5.7/5.8, no hard/tricky aid, nice stances or ledges at most belays, gorgeous views. We walked down the Half Dome trail which sucked. I went back up the next week and replaced a bunch of bolts and came down the Death Slabs. Definitely the better way.

Logan’s camera battery died so light on the pics.

Psyched! We got dropped off at the Stables but it would have saved some hoofing to have rode bikes to Mirror lake.


All those awesome trs about hiking down Tenaya Canyon have vastly improved the trail. We hit the base of Watkins after a couple hours of easy padding.


We blew by the shallow pools at the base of Watkins and then found ourselves below the Dome in a bone-dry creekbed. Luckily just 5-10 minutes of easy crusin up the creekbed brings you to a clear pool.


When heading into the unknown, get the most ripped partner possible


After Steri-pening the water we laid around admiring the late light on our objective




If you hike past the base of Watkins for 10-15 minutes until you reach an open, wide streambed section it is pretty easy to scope the approach. Allow about 2 hours to the filter water spot, an hour to filter/lounge, and then another hour/hour and a half to get to the base.



This photo is courtesy of crackfiend. Thanks!


Soon we were snoring happily surrounded by amazing peaks


early am start(we did the route in the Fall, and could have easily got by with no sleeping bags, just puffy jackets, as the inversion really brings up that hot air.)


off route on the approach


Logan taking us up to the true base of the climb


Sweet bivy at the base of the route


Logan at the end of the first pitch on my new topo. (The old guide shows this  as the beginning of the 1st pitch but to make that happen you’d have to solo some easy 5th—reasonable with a  day climb amount of stuff but not more)


Just getting started and it’s already a long way down


5.7 face traverse at the beginning of the third pitch


The scar above the third-fifth pitches—large and pretty


Sweet views


(different light cause I shot this one the next week when I went back)


Splitter fun, 5th pitch


Psyched!


Easy 5th at the beginning of the 6th pitch


9th pitch


10th pitch—this is the thin aid. If you can climb 5.10 there is a face variation to the left that it looked like a couple bolts had been added to. The beaks/baby angles were bomber.


11th pitch—lots of easy chimneying with small, C1cracks in the back on the upper pitches. A little dirty though.


12th pitch—a couple beaks at the beginning and then beautiful small cams


Logan taking us to the top(Actually in this photo he is about to attempt the free variation which is pretty desperate. Ended up just aiding the A2 fixed)


Sick view of Half Dome from the top


Met a friend on the trail down. He said ‘only 5.12 and you still aided? Shuffle along lightweights’


Summit Glory shot from the next week


New Topo


To download this as a pdf
http://cid-ac7b92e4a1d5c148.skydrive.live.com/self.aspx/.Public/Pegasus%...

Thank you Logan, Quarter Dome and the Tenaya Canyon gang.
Best
e

Date: 
2009-09