The only truly novice bigwall in the Valley, the South Face is incredible, low angle and secure. Thin, stopper-eating splitter cracks, only a few of which need to be aided if you can freeclimb 5.10a, abound. South Face is like a favorite book that you can read over and over. The last pitch is a loose gully from which pebbles and small stones can shower down at any time, so wear your helmet even on Dinner Ledge if there are people climbing above(on South Face or Skull Queen which tops out right next to South Face)

*Plan: Most folks spend a day getting to the climb and climbing to Dinner ledge. If doing South Face in two days you will need to fix one or two pitches off Dinner Ledge. If time allows it can be much more enjoyable to give yourself an extra day for fixing off Dinner Ledge and enjoying the views.

*Ledge: Dinner ledge, which has two tiers, is a palace for 6-8, squeezable to 12+.

*Descent: Rapping the route has become popular, but is not the best option when there are crowds. It is often very windy in the afternoon which makes rapping difficult. The nice thing about rapping the route is you can leave your bivy gear on Dinner Ledge and rap back down to it, maybe spending an extra night if you have time. The downside is the summit of the Column is an outrageous fin of rock, with sweeping views back beyond Clouds Rest, the Clarks Range, and down the Valley to El Cap; a true spot to savor. The rap route starts from the top anchor of Skull Queen, and raps back to anchors 10 and 9 on South Face, before leaving the South Face route and rapping straight down using two independent rap stations, before reconnecting with the South Face route for the final two raps to Dinner Ledge.

*The Elements: South Face is in the Sun most all day, though it is often windy and much cooler in the afternoon.

Incredibly steep and moderate, with fantastic Awhahnee Ledge 350' up, Leaning Tower is a fun first wall for folks who like their rock steep. It is totally reasonable to do this route in six or seven pitches. For many, the radical overhanging nature and the fact that the route starts off a  3rd class ledge 400' off the ground which adds instant exposure, can be too much for a total wall novice. The cruxes are more awkward, or flaring placements, than super thin. The rack is light because most pitches contain many bolts or fixed pieces, or the cracks take a nice variety of gear. As of 2010, the popularity of free climbing on the route had made aid climbing the pitch to Ahwahnee and the first pitch afterward more challenging as fixed pieces were periodically removed for handholds--no big deal for someone with at least one wall under their belt but sometimes challenging for total beginners.

*Plan: There are many equally-viable strategies for climbing the Tower. The good news is the approach trail climbs out a beautifully exposed ledge, which is technically on the mountain and legal to bivy on, so this gives you leeway if you find the going slow at first or run into a lot of other folks. Most parties make it to Ahwahnee Ledge their first day, and spend a long second day getting to the top.

*Approach: The trail which starts from the bathrooms at the Bridaveil Falls parking lot can be vague. There is an apartment-sized boulder just behind and toward the Leaning Tower from the bathrooms, so if you head over to that boulder and look for a small trail on its far side and continue up this toward the wall you're on the right track. It is difficult to avoid doing some boulder-hopping on the approach your first time, so break your loads up accordingly or consider taking a hike up to the Tower on a rest day to get the trail dialed. The last 100'  of the 3rd and 4th class ledge to the base of the route definitely feels more like 5.5 with a haul bag. Most parties fix a line for this last section of the approach, from tree to tree, and clip into the line as they shuttle their stuff over to the base of the route.

*Ledge: Ahwahnee is a palace for 3, comfy for 4 or 5. While the Tower is radically overhanging rain or snow does hit Ahwahnee enough to require bivy sacs during a storm. Dano Ledge, just below the Summit is an awesome bivy, and there is also a nice flat spot at the top of the Notch, where the rappels enter the gully/chimney.

*Descent: From the top of the Tower you rap/rap+downclimb two pitches of low angle slab to the notch above the chimney/gully that splits the Leaning tower and B.O.L.T. walls. From there you can't get lost, rapping down the chimney several times to the ground which comes out a couple hundred feet above where the 4th class approach ledge departs the trail. Depending on the conditions, and how much stuff you're carrrying, it is possible to rap with one rope (with short sections of 4th class(more like canyoneering) downclimbing until the last two rappels.

*The Elements: Leaning Tower gets Sun mid-afternoon to sunset. While outrageously steep, water does blow in in places and also run down the mountain so the route is not totally dry in a storm. The descent is very tricky/dangerous in a storm as you must descend low-angle slabs first and then a loose chimney/gully system.

Steep and exposed, The Prow follows a dreamy line up mostly thin cracks. While definitely not your first wall, The Prow is a beginner route because fixed gear allows most parties to climb it clean(with hooks and camhooks) and only a few pitches have tricky aid. The cruxes involve small offset nuts, cam hooks or regular hooks, and some fixed heads.

*Plan: Most parties approach the climb and make it to Anchorage Ledge the first day. If you're planning on doing the route in two days you will need to fix a pitch off Anchorage, or push on and bivy a pitch or two higher (better plan).

*Ledge: Anchorage ledge and Tapir Terrace have been romanticized into sleeping quarters, but in reality are just good places to chill, eat. Stellar spot with incredible views, Prow is good times. The summit bivy is high times.

*Descent: While the North Dome Gully descent is steep and exposed in parts, it is much easier than rapping the route which is too steep/exposed to make rapping easy (also there is no dedicated rappel route so you would need to pass parties on the way down which would be difficult with airy, hanging belays). The Gully is not that bad in daylight and with a careful/attentive attitude. Most parties spend 2-5 hours descending from the climb.

*The Elements: Prow gets early light and is in the Sun until afternoon, when the winds often pick up and temperature dips significantly.

The Nose is a fantasy bigwall in solid granite form. Minutes from the car, splitter (after the first four pitches to Sickle Ledge), with ample ledges, great exposure, incredible views, The Nose has it all. Climbing The Nose will make you want to climb The Nose again, and again. It's that good. The Nose after Sickle Ledge is nearly all straightforward easy aid with plenty of 5.7-5.9 glory free climbing, compared with Salathe Wall which has continuous trickier aid and more spread out ledges. The first four pitches can be very challenging with flaring placements and slick rock, so know that they are not at all representative of the rest of the route, which is secure, splitter, and perfect. Yeeeuh!

*Plan: Most parties fix to Sickle their first day and immediately begin to question whether or not they're up for the challenges of the Nose. Don't worry, the going gets much more straightforward/easy a couple pitches higher when you enter the Stovelegs. Commonly, a lot of theorizing goes on between parties who are fixing to Sickle, often with each party trading ideas of when they will start up the next day and when the other parties should start to ensure that everyone does not show up at the base of the fixed lines at the same time.

Remember these basic Yosemite bigwall rules:

1.The person/team climbing and hauling up the route first is the one on the route first that day, and this is very often not the team who fixed their lines first the day before. (this means that it doesn't matter when you fix to Sickle, if you're motivated to get up at 4am and you're the first one up your lines and climbing, then you're first on the route--it sounds good to accommodate each party and to work together so each party starts in a certain order and everyone is not stuck at one belay; in reality things often do not go as planned, plans change, or parties who are not planning on fixing climb ahead and prevent/complicate the ability of parties who have fixed ropes to start climbing. Fixing ropes is handy, but on The Nose it can make things complicated too). 

2. Bigwalls are complicated so if a party says they are planning on starting at 5am it is likely that they will start much later.

3. Your best bet if fixing ropes is to get to your lines a little earlier than you planned, so you have time to relax and deal with any unforseen complications.

Most parties spend 3 nights on the wall and a night on the top.

*Ledge: Dolt and El Cap Tower are topnotch bivies. Sickle, Camp 4, and Camp 5 are fairly sloping considering that parties bivy on them nearly everyday in season. If planning on slowboating this route a portaledge would make these ledges a lot more enjoyable for sleeping. That said, most parties fix to Sickle so only have to deal with one night at a sloping ledge on Camp 4 or Camp 5.

*The Elements: Lower down the Nose gets Sun by 9am, after the Great Roof the Sun hits late morning. Rappeling the Nose is straight forward if it's a sunny day and you don't have a haulbag, but that is rarely the circumstances under which people are rappeling. The deep cracks of the Nose become icy rivers that make going up or down very difficult in storms so definitely bring a portalege w/ fly if there is weather forecasted and start rappeling early if you think you are going to need to bail because of weather.

Triple D is a sweetly long, easy classic. The climbing is straightforward, the ledges plush, though it lacks the glory of the Stovelegs or the Salathe headwall (better to climb The Nose or Salathe first).  The cruxes are a couple flaring placements or camhooks moves. Bonus: Triple D visits a whopping 6 sleepable ledges, more than either Nose or Salathe. (most folks skip one, atop the Half Dollar, by climbing Freeblast their first day).

*Plan: Most parties climb Freeblast on their first day, descending the fixed lines from Mammoth (often you will need to leave your own rope between Heart Ledge and Mammoth), and then spend the next day hauling to Mammoth and climbing to Grey Ledges.  The traversing pitches to Camp 4 are esthetic, easy climbing but are often very windy and slower.

*Ledge: Mammoth and Grey Ledges are stellar. The ledge one pitch below Camp 4 is preferrable to Camp 4, which is very uneven and sloping. 

*The Elements: Triple D is in the Sun from mid-morning to sunset. The fixed lines from Heart Ledge make retreat from between Mammoth Ledge and the traverse above Grey Ledges very straightforward/easy. If after the traverse is is better to reverse the pitch below Camp 4, or climb the Great Roof, so you can rap the Rohr Rappel route which takes you back to Dolt Tower and down the Stovelegs.

The Nose and Salathe are arguably the two greatest bigwall routes in the world. Salathe=yang The Nose=yin. Salathe challenges you to change cracks, bust free moves, and generally use all your climbing skills compared to the straight-in, China-deep cracks of the Nose. Salathe is more the 5.10 free climber's route where the Nose is the 5.8/5.9 free climber's route(except for the first four pitches of the Nose which are tricky at 5.8 C2). The crux is the Hollow Flake, and a few short sections of flaring cracks that take cam hooks or offset nuts and cams.

*Plan: Most parties spend the first day climbing Freeblast, descending the fixed lines from Heart Ledge and enjoying a nice meal in the Valley while basking in the glow of climbing one of the greatest routes on earth. The next day is spent hauling back up the fixed lines to Heart and climbing to Long Ledge (or Hollow Flake ledge if you bring a portaledge). Most parties spend 3-4 nights on the wall.

*Ledge: The Heart and El Cap Spire are two of the best bivies around. The Block and Long Ledge are sloping but sleepable. Remember to use your haulbag and ropes to make more level sleeping spots.

*The Elements: Salathe is in the Sun from mid-morning to sunset.

South Central is scrappy/adventurous classic Yosemite climb. While not that technically difficult it is a big step up from the South Face due to mandatory free or difficult aid on crumbly rock. The cruxes of the route are well protected thin cracks, though a few of the easier pitches are also difficult due to being dirty/vague. A fun route if you're comfortable leading 5.10 in the Valley.

*Plan: The traverse over to the start of this climb, along the Dinner Ledge crack system is long enough to make fixing and rapping back down to bivy on Dinner Ledge not feasible. Most folks get in a 5.10 shape and do this climb in a long day. If you plan on bivying it is advisable to not bring too much stuff (best to do the climb this way in the heat of the summer, so you could sleep in your puffy jackets w/ sleeping pads) as it is difficult to shuttle your stuff from dinner ledge to the beginning of the route.

*Descent: Either hiking over and rappeling Royal Arches(if you're lazy/thirsty as there is a spring at the top and you come out at the Ahwahnee), or hiking down North Dome Gully are equally viable descent options. South Central tops out on a sandy trail that leads to the top of the Column, and it is not easy to hike up, over, and down to the top of the South Face(the rock is crumbly at the top and the summit is tiered in a way that makes it hard to see where the other routes top out) so rapping down the South Face route would be difficult.

Laughing at the Void is the perfect practice route for those aspiring to climb long El Cap nailups. Mostly clean cracks interspersed with bomber bolts cruise up a beautiful steep golden wall, and the view from the bivy ledge is incredible. The cruxes are a couple shallow piton placements. Laughing at the Void is better after you've climbed The Prow or Skull Queen rather than the South Face, as a couple of the pitches are long and steep and therefore difficult if you don't have a few aid leads under your belt.

*Plan: The approach is a steep difficult hike, so plan on spending the first day getting all your stuff to the base of the wall(best in two trips) and fixing two or three pitches(with two 60m ropes) and bivying at the base. It is only a short walk over to Ribbon Creek so you can filter water after doing the approach. The second day climb to bivy ledge atop pitch 6, fixing a pitch if you have time. Day three climb to the top, leaving any bags at the top of the 8th pitch and enjoying easy free climbing to the top, and then rappel back to your bag and down to the ledge and continue rappelling down the climb.

*Ledge: The bivy ledge atop pitch 6 is long and narrow, and not perfectly flat so use your rope(s) and empty haulbag to level it out. Awesome spot once you get it dialed.

*Descent: rappel the route.

Wet Denim is a pint-sized version of the nailups found on El Cap's southeast face: steep, wild climbing follows mostly continuous thin cracks with plenty of fixed gear that can make the going seem easier than the ratings suggest. The final roof pitch, which climbs 15' of pure dangling horizontalness, is one of the coolest aid leads in the Valley. Climb Wet Denim after you've climbed Southern Man, The Prow or Ten Days After and are aspiring to the bigger nailups on El Cap; it is similar technically to Zenyatta Mondatta but much eaiser as it is much shorter.

*Plan:  Splitting your loads into two for the steep, scrambly approach will help keep the stoke high and keep you moving. Spend the first day getting to Ahwahnee ledge and fixing a pitch or two. Day two climb to the top(Dano Ledge just below the summit is a righteous hang) and bivy or descend.

*Ledge: Ahwahnee Ledge is plush for 4 or 5, squeezable to 7. Dano Ledge is plush for 3 or 4.

*The Elements: This route is mostly dry during storms, though some rain/snow will drift onto Ahwahnee ledge so it is best to bring a bivy sac or tarp.

The Direct follows easy, mostly splitter cracks to a steep smooth headwall.

The Direct is similar to the West Face of the Leaning Tower in that it offers a 2 day outing on a wall that is otherwise climbed over 5-10 days. This is possible because these routes are much less natural than the routes they are around. The Direct finishes on the Porcelain Wall, which climbs several pitches of steep bolt ladders up a blank face, originally climbed in 1976 by a team led by Warren Harding(also called the Harding Route). The cruxes are a few loose pin placements, and the 2 hr approach.

*Approach: Plan on a full day for the approach, which climbs 1000 ft from Mirror Lake on mostly easy but sometimes sandy/scrambly talus terrain. You will follow the Death Slabs approach trail for Half Dome, jogging right shortly after the top of the first fixed rope. Most parties will make at least two trips up the approach, whose steepness punishes you if you try to carry too much at once. Riding bikes from the overnight parking lot to Mirror Lake is highly recommended, and saves about 1/2 hr. If the water is high and crossing Mirror Lake on the plentiful rocks is not an option, then you will have to take the Mirror Lake loop trail earlier on the Mirror Lake road which adds some hilly trail terrain and 20 min. to the approach(still worth it to take the bikes to here). There is only water at the base in the Spring, when large snow cones provide water. You can filter

water at Mirror Lake.

*Ledge:

The Cemetary has a ledge for one, and widely space bolts for a hammock right where you belay. There is a good sloping ledge to hang out with the bags/cook at. This area is super terraced and mostly 4th class scrambling so there is also the option to scramble up and left to another sleeping spot where Sky Is Falling goes. Paradise ledge is spacious though not nearly as nice as the bivy on the summit, 60m above.

*Descent: This descent essentially reverses the Snake Dike approach, whose start is just an 1/8 mile from the Diving Board. So there is the option to just walk down past Lost Lake till you hit the John Muir Trail and continue down to Curry Village. Not as obvious but shorter and much more beautiful hiking is to hike to the end of Lost Lake and then cut between Libery Cap and Mt. Broderick where you join the Nevada Falls trail. Either way allow half a day for the descent, which is not too bad with a heavy bag.

*The Elements: This route is in the shade nearly all day. The top four pitches receive a couple hours of sun, while the bottom pitches stay in the shade nearly all day.

Dante's Inferno is an adventurous, very natural line up one of Yosemite's most scenic walls. Characterized by easier(though a little dirty) aid and some cool free climbing up long crack systems, this is a fun moderate climb. The hurricane force winds that whip across the Falls Wall at night are fully present on this route, meaning you will get wet if you try to climb it too early in the season, and good to bring the portaledge fly even if the weather is good so you can relax out of the wind.

*Approach/Descent: The approach starts up a large talus/boulder field(the now defunk Fern Ledge Trail) behind the Valley Fire Station/NPS stables/Search and Rescue office in Yosemite Village. The Fern Ledge trail ends atop Lower Yosemite Falls and from there you can drop your packs and scramble up, down and around a couple hundred feet to some amazing swmming pools--a good place to recharge and filter water halfway up the approach(when the Falls are raging in the Spring this is not an option) before continuing up obvious ledges/sandy trail to the base of the wall. A fun way to approach Lost Arrow is climbing the Sunnyside Bench Route(5.4), just up and left from Jamcrack. You could take your two ropes and rack and do this start to the approach(20-30min faster than walking around and way more fun), drop off your gear at the base of the wall(or fix a couple pitches) and then descend the trail and hike up all your bivy/wall stuff; or you could climb Sunnyside Bench one day and scope the first half of the approach and check out the waterflow and the amazing pools at the top of Lower Falls and see how feasible it is to get(filterable) water there. However you do it, if you split your loads into two this approach is a lot more enjoyable. Allow 3-5 hrs with a heavy pack.

Descend the Yosemite Falls Trail.

*Plan: Most parties hike up and fix a couple pitches, descending to the pools at the top of the Lower Falls(halfway up the approach trail) to filter water, and bivy at the base. The hurricane force winds that rake the wall at night also hit the base so plan on setting up your ledge and fly. Most parties spend 2-3 days on the wall.

*Ledge: No natural ledges.

*The Elements: Falls Wall is often super windy and cold in Spring.

Tangerine Trip is a rare Southeast Face moderate. Steep and awesome location are its big pros; traversy, not so classic climbing interspersed with tons of bolts are the cons. There are no bad El Cap routes but T Trip is a big step down in classiness compared to nearby Zodiac. The lack of stances or ledges at most belays, and some trickier traversing climbing also make it a couple letter grades harder than Zodiac. It has become popular to start on the first pitch of Lost in America and then climb the 3rd and 4th pitches of Virginia(and then continue up the Trip) to avoid doing the downclimbing on pitch 4 that is often very wet and difficult for the cleaner; if you know you like bigwall climbing and will eventually climb nearby Aurora you won't miss any Trip pitches by doing this start, as Aurora does the first 3.5 pitches of the Trip. T Trip sees a lot of traffic because it is the most protected Winter/Spring Intermediate route--when the 2nd and 3rd pitches of Zodiac can be very wet. Tangerine Trip is a logical step up from Ten Days After or Mideast Crises; it is technically easier but longer so similar in overall difficulty to Electric Ladyland or Afroman; it is easier than Re-Animator, Horny-Johnson, or Saddam Hussein.

*Plan: Most folks fix a few pitches their first day. The wall is steep and the climbing can be a little slow at times so most people end up hauling on day 2 and climbing to pitch 5 or so(pitch 5 is long and can be slow to lead and clean). Most parties spend 3 nights on the wall and a night on top.

*Ledge: There are small ledges/stances on top of pitches 7 and 9 which make a hanging bivy much more enjoyable(you can set small things like the stove,ect. on the ledge).

Muir Wall is the endlessly splitter bigwall of your dreams. Just a few pitches are technically challenging, with most being incredible cam cracks. The route is a lot more complicated than the Nose or Salathe, however, because it doesn't have too much free climbing.The added logistics of spending a week on the wall make Muir Wall a poor choice for beginners, compared to say Zodiac or Tangerine Trip which are much more difficult technically but are about half the length. Muir Wall is a logical step up from any of the easier El Cap routes: Lurking Fear, Nose, Salathe, or Zodiac; it is perfect for those looking to spend develop confidence in their systems and equipment during a weeklong climb, without the added stress of more difficult aid pitches.

*Plan: Most folks fix a few pitches in half a day and then climb to Heart Ledge on their first full day bringing just day supplies, and descend the fixed ropes to the ground from Heart. Day two(2.5 really) is spent hauling up to Heart via the much more straight fixed lines and climbing to Mammoth or Grey Ledges. Most folks spend 5-7 days on the wall.

*Ledge: Muir visits some of El Cap's finest ledges, but you'll need a portaledge for the upper part.

*The Elements: Muir follows long crack systems which can become dangerous icy rivers when it rains, so make sure you have a solid longterm forecast before starting up. For this reason Muir is not the best choice in the early season(late April-May) when thundershowers/storms can be common.

A direct, easier aid line up to Eagle Ledge halfway up the Nose, Grape Race is a fun location with a handful of classic pitches interspersed with many bolts. The initial pitch, which heads up and left halfway through the fourth pitch of the Nose, has mandatory 5.8 climbing(bolt protected) up featured face and cracks. After that, it's mostly bolts/mellow aid with one incredible 300' splitter in the middle of the route. The cruxes are a few thin piton placements. Grape Race has unique views and while the climbing is not always that classic it gives the cool feeling of following the true Nose of El Cap. Grape Race combines the technical difficulty of Zodiac and the length of The Nose, so it is a logical step up after Mideast Crises or Ten Days After.

*Plan: Most folks fix a couple pitches and then spend the rest of their first day shuttling their gear up the third class approach ledges and maybe hauling, and bivy on the ground. Allow 3 more days(after fixing) to climb Grape Race and another 2 days to finish The Nose.

*Ledge: Stellar Cellar is a nice hang but too sloping to sleep on, so GR requires a portaledge.

NA Wall was the first climb on southeast face of El Cap, and like other early climbs it has a real wandery, natural/adventurous charm. The climbing is never too difficult, and there are some cool cracks and amazing bivy ledges interspersed with some loose rock and awkward traverses. The traversing nature of the climb, and the length, mean you will want to have a couple longer, easier walls under your belt before you get on this one. NA Wall is a good route after you've climbed something on the east face of Washington Column, or The Nose or Salathe.

*Plan: Most parties fix three pitches the first day(with two 60m ropes) and bivy at the base, spending 3-5 more days on the wall. Make sure you have a 50 ft. lowerout line for the haulbags. NA Wall is a natural line with many convenient stances/small ledges at belays, so most parties get by with just a fabric belay seat.

*Ledges: Calaveras Ledge is a cool hang but too sloping for comfy sleeping. Big Sur, The Cyclops, and The Igloo are all awesome ledges.

*The Elements: NA Wall follows continous crack systems that are not pretty in a storm. Make sure you have a solid forecast before starting up the wall.

The Shield is a climb that calls all aid climbers. Idolized for its splitter cracks that cruise up a real, golden shield of a headwall above The Heart, The Shield today is harder than the Zodiac only because it is longer and therefore more complicated. The dozens of Rurps used on the first ascent of some of its infamous pitches are today left behind in favor of 1 1/4- 1 1/2 " sawed off pitons and large birdbeaks, which can often be handplaced very securely. The Shield is a location climb. It is an awesome, easier aid climb. Bonus Tip: The Shield headwall is fiercly windy all year, making this climb incredibly cold in early/late season. If the Yosemite Valley temperatures are in the 80s, the temperature on The Shield headwall will be in the 50s-60s with windchill; if the Valley temps are in the 70s, The Shield headwall will be in the 40s-50s with windchill.

*Plan: Most parties climb Freeblast their first day, and spend day two hauling to Mammoth Ledges and maybe fixing a pitch or two. After that, plan on 3-5 days on the wall. The final haul is very low angle so pay extra attention to packing your haulbags into perfectly haulable torpedo shapes(not too much stuff on top of the bag). The headwall pitches can be slow so be sure to bring a comfy belay seat.

*Ledge: With stellar ledges Mammoth Terrace and Grey Ledges as well as the righteous hang(but portaledge bivy) Chickenhead Ledge, many parties only spend one hanging night on the headwall.

*The Elements: In addition to the information above about The Shield headwall being a windy cold place yearround, it is also a dreadful spot in a storm. Do not attempt The Shield if a storm is forecasted.

Never Never Land splits off after the first seven pitches of Aquarian Wall, following beautiful steep, thin cracks that make you dangle but never get too hard. NNL is a Yosemite classic(stunning,splitter) while Aquarian Wall is classic Yosemite(natural but awkward/wide/dirty in spots). The cruxes are a few thin piton placements.  Timbuktu Tower is as good as El Cap bivy ledges come. Never Never Land is a step up from Mideast Crises, or Ten Days After; it is similar in difficulty though longer than Electric Ladyland; it is technically easier though overall harder(longer) than Afroman or Re-Animator. 

*Plan: The lead bolts on pitches 3-6 are very far apart, so bring extended rivet hangers and a long (stiffened)quickdraw if you are less than 5'10" tall . Spend your first day hiking up your rack and ropes and fixing the first two pitches, and fixing straight down to the west edge of the Wings of Steel Slab(thus avoiding dragging all your bivy gear down, around and up the 3rd class section of the approach), and hiking the rest of your stuff up and maybe hauling. After that, most parties spend 3-5 days on the wall. Most parties find it difficult to make Timbuktu Tower their first night if they did not haul their bags the day they fixed. If you can spend an extra day on Timbuktu Tower you will live longer and smile more.

*Ledge: Timbuktu Tower and Thanksgiving Ledge are incredible bivies. The rest of the route is steep with some hanging belays, so bring a belay seat.

*The Elements: Never Never Land is obviously no place to be in a winter storm. There is a rappel route down from Timbuktu Tower trends a little west but generally heads straight down.

JBMH is stout, overhanging aid right from the start. The first three pitches are the hardest, in part because after that you are used to the steepness. In the mid 2000s Todd Skinner and friends tried to establish a free climb which crisscrosses the beginning the route. Skinner abandoned that start but in 2010 the project had been revived by a motivated local. (so there might be some confusing bolts around the first couple pitches--not on route but distracting if you're looking for the first pitch((which is just past the bolts)))