Intro/Strategy

Tangerine Trip is a rare Southeast Face moderate. Its pros are that its steep and is an awesome location; its cons are traversy, not so classic climbing interspersed with tons of bolts. There are no bad El Cap routes but T Trip is a big step down in classiness compared to nearby Zodiac. The lack of stances or ledges at most belays, and some trickier traversing climbing also make it a couple letter grades harder than Zodiac. It is recommended to start on the first pitch of Lost in America and then climb the 3rd and 4th pitches of Virginia(and then continue up the Trip) to avoid doing the downclimbing on pitch 4 that is often very wet and difficult for the cleaner. If you know you will eventually climb nearby Aurora you won't miss any Trip pitches by doing this start, as Aurora does the first 3.5 pitches of the Trip. T Trip sees a lot of traffic because it is the most protected Winter/Spring Intermediate route--when the 2nd and 3rd pitches of Zodiac can be very wet. Tangerine Trip is a logical step up from Ten Days After, Mideast Crises, or Zodiac.

 

*Plan: Most folks fix a few pitches their first day. The wall is steep and the climbing can be a little slow at times so most people end up hauling on day 2 and climbing to pitch 5 or so(pitch 5 is long and can be slow to lead and clean). Most parties spend 3 nights on the wall and a night on top.

 

*Ledge: There are small ledges/stances on top of pitches 7 and 9 which make a hanging bivy much more enjoyable(you can set small things like the stove,ect. on the ledge).

Trip Reports

Trip Reports

History

Speed

1. Partner
10h:24mins
Ammon McNeely, Cedar Wright
Jul 2002
18h:34mins
Steve Gerberding, Jay Smith, Scott Stowe
Aug 1991 (first one day ascent)