This route is a perfect mid-Summer old school classic: cool, mostly continuous crack systems split the middle of one of the most dramatic faces/spires in Yosemite. The cruxes are short sections of crumbly rock and a few thin piton placements. Still a little dirty in sections, this route saw a serious free climbing attempt in the late 90s which saw the anchors replaced and many bolts added to the 4th pitch, making the route a bit more casual. The views of El Cap are unforgettable.


*Plan: Most parties hike up and fix a pitch or two, bivying either on the wall or at the base, and then spend two more days on the route.


*Approach: Though steep, only takes an hour and half with a heavy pack. Best to hike your gear up and fix a couple pitches, and get the trail all figured out before carrying up all your stuff.


*Ledge: There are no bivy ledges on the route, though the base and summit are righteous hangs.


*The Elements: Higher Spire is in the shade almost all day, making it perfect for the hot season.

Trip Reports

Trip Reports