Intro/Strategy

Mideast Crisis is the Zodiac of the East Face--wildly steep(Leaning Tower steepness), mostly moderate aid climbing bliss. This is the perfect route for those looking to get into more complicated aid but are intimidated by El Cap. Mideast Crisis follows mostly straight-in cam cracks. Most parties place just a couple pins. The overhanging corners at the top, split by endless hand cracks, are mega-classic C1 or 5.12+!

 

*Plan: The first few pitches wander up low-angle, grassy terrain so it is preferrable to fix to pitch 3 or 4 and haul from there (from 4 you can reach the ground with 2 60m ropes using an intermediate anchor). Most folks fix a couple pitches and bivy on the base or on the wall the first day, and then spend 2-4 more days on the route.The second pitch is wet nearly all year so best to fix above that, in case you need to change your clothes. Spending a day or two on super-steep, hanging-belay terrain is challenging so make sure to bring a comfy belay seat and take extra care to separate/coil ropes before they entangled in the haul bags or each other.


*Ledge: Hotel California is a sweet hang, and a decent sleeping ledge with ropes for padding. It's seven mostly-overhanging pitches up though so you'll need a portledge.

 

*The Elements: MC gets Sun morning till early afternoon. It can be windy and cold in the afternoon. The first couple pitches and the last pitch(and Hotel California) get wet in the rain, but the rest of the route is so outrageously steep it stays dry during storms.

Trip Reports

Trip Reports

History

Speed