Intro/Strategy

269 Steep and exposed, The Prow follows a dreamy line up mostly thin cracks. While definitely not your first wall, The Prow is a beginner route because fixed gear allows most parties to climb it clean(with hooks and camhooks) and only a few pitches have tricky aid. The cruxes involve small offset nuts, cam hooks or regular hooks, and some fixed heads.

 

*Plan: Most parties approach the climb and make it to Anchorage Ledge the first day. If you're planning on doing the route in two days you will need to fix a pitch off Anchorage, or push on and bivy a pitch or two higher (better plan).


*Ledge: Anchorage ledge and Tapir Terrace have been romanticized into sleeping quarters, but in reality are just good places to chill, eat. Stellar spot with incredible views, Prow is good times. The summit bivy is high times.

 

*Descent: While the North Dome Gully descent is steep and exposed in parts, it is much easier than rapping the route which is too steep/exposed to make rapping easy (also there is no dedicated rappel route so you would need to pass parties on the way down which would be difficult with airy, hanging belays). The Gully is not that bad in daylight and with a careful/attentive attitude. Most parties spend 2-5 hours descending from the climb.

 

*The Elements: Prow gets early light and is in the Sun until afternoon, when the winds often pick up and temperature dips significantly.

Trip Reports

History

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Speed

1. Partner
03h:01min
Jason Smith, Cedar Wright
Jun 2000