Intro/Strategy

269 Steep and exposed, The Prow follows a dreamy line up mostly thin cracks. While definitely not your first wall, The Prow is a beginner route because fixed gear allows most parties to climb it clean(with hooks and camhooks) and only a few pitches have tricky aid. The cruxes involve small offset nuts, cam hooks or regular hooks, and some fixed heads.

 

*Plan: Most parties approach the climb and make it to Anchorage Ledge the first day. If you're planning on doing the route in two days you will need to fix a pitch off Anchorage, or push on and bivy a pitch or two higher (better plan).


*Ledge: Anchorage ledge and Tapir Terrace have been romanticized into sleeping quarters, but in reality are just good places to chill, eat. Stellar spot with incredible views, Prow is good times. The summit bivy is high times.

 

*Descent: While the North Dome Gully descent is steep and exposed in parts, it is much easier than rapping the route which is too steep/exposed to make rapping easy (also there is no dedicated rappel route so you would need to pass parties on the way down which would be difficult with airy, hanging belays). The Gully is not that bad in daylight and with a careful/attentive attitude. Most parties spend 2-5 hours descending from the climb.

 

*The Elements: Prow gets early light and is in the Sun until afternoon, when the winds often pick up and temperature dips significantly.

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Speed Record

03h:01min
Jason Smith, Cedar Wright
Jun 2000
  • 2017 06hours -- sean warren (solo)
    rapped from 6.
  • Oct 2016 16hours -- dan moses (solo)
    Great time. Soloing is a bunch of work. Loved it.
  • May 01, 2016 3 days -- Aaron McDonald, Levi Goldman
    Climbing by 8:00AM in the ledge by 5:00PM. Great time, great friend and great exposure! What more could you ask for? All the heads were in good shape.
  • May 2016 0.5 days -- dan moses, Jerry the Jet
    36 hours LA to Summit to LA. Yahoo!
  • Oct 20, 2015 09hours -- glenn douglass, Greg Coit
    Greg fixed to Belay 3 on anchorage ledge the day before. We took 1 hour to jug to anchorage and start leading.
  • Oct 2015 1 day -- dan moses, Willie
    Its a cold night on top if you don't bring a sleeping bag....
  • Jun 24, 2015 2 days -- Steven Tata, Matt C.
  • Apr 19, 2015 09hours -- Erik Sloan, Tommy Bairstow
    Awesome time! We dodged a major thunderstorm. Woot!
  • Oct 2014 4 days -- sean warren
  • Sep 2014 1 day -- dan moses, Jerry "The Jet" Greenleaf
    Great Route. All clean, no reason to pound or hand place a thing. Do it in a push and camp at the top!
  • Mar 09, 2014 1 day -- Brandon Adams, Zak
    Classic wall with great position. Pretty beat up but super fun.
  • Feb 2014 23hours -- Justin Cory (solo)
  • Oct 27, 2013 1.5 days -- Will Masterman, Conner Macleod
    East face of the column is the way to go!
  • Oct 27, 2013 1.5 days -- Conner MacLeod, Will Masterman
    Fun route, a little beat out but very direct.
  • Aug 2013 3 days -- John Greer (solo)
    First rope solo without a route preview first.
  • Oct 2012 2 days -- glenn douglass, Greg Coit
  • May 2012 2 days -- Justin Cory (solo)
  • Sep 18, 2010 13h:20mins -- Adam Long, Elliot Faber
  • Oct 2009 3 days -- Jarad Stiles, Kevin Kuhns, Sarah Kane
  • Sep 05, 2009 07hours -- Roger Putnam, Ben Fair
  • Apr 16, 2009 2 days -- David Allfrey (solo)
    First valley solo. I was terrified.
  • Jun 05, 2008 13hours -- Roger Putnam, Eric Grove
    First time up the column...good times!
  • Sep 09, 2006 3 days -- David Brendgard, Solo (solo)
    Solo in 3 days. Took a ledge, Fish One Night Stand. I took 9L of water and ran out the last day. The route was easy with a couple tricky section, I think pitch 3 was the hardest for me. I went strait up and did not do the belly crawl, with a couple of big cams you can aid the OW. However, because I was so hot and thirsty I did detour into the belly crawl to get some shade and moisture then went back out onto the OW. The views from the top are great of Half Dome. The descent was....shitty. I was scared of the 4th class traverse and shuttled load across, I should have fixed a line. I found water on top which saved my butt on the descent. Great route for a Grade V.
  • Nov 18, 2002 3 days -- Rachel McCullough, Sam Johnson
  • Apr 2001 09hours -- Erik Sloan, Mikey Schafer
  • Jul 06, 1995 09h:20mins -- Erik Sloan, Chris McNamara
  • Sep 1991 1.5 days -- T M, eric ? from Kansas
    My first yosemite wall.
  • Sep 1988 2.5 days -- Umberto Villotta, Gianni Rossetti
  • Jun 1987 3 days -- Ken Bokelund, Paul Maguire
  • Apr 1985 3 days -- Frank Sanders (solo)
    Slow but sure, my first wall solo in the Valley. Post-holed through the snow, packing loads, then launched on a Marvelous 3 day Adventure. It was the first of manyAdventures for the 1985 Valley Season. I stayed on the walls in the Valley from April through November. Nine El Cap routes for me that Season. It was a season that I will hold with me until my last breath, and then some. Blessed are those who Live out their Dreams...
  • Jun 1980 2.5 days -- Paul Gagner, Don't remember

Trip Reports

History

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Speed

1. Partner
03h:01min
Jason Smith, Cedar Wright
Jun 2000