Intro/Strategy

South Central is scrappy/adventurous classic Yosemite climb. While not that technically difficult it is a big step up from the South Face due to mandatory free or difficult aid on crumbly rock. The cruxes of the route are well protected thin cracks, though a few of the easier pitches are also difficult due to being dirty/vague. A fun route if you're comfortable leading 5.10 in the Valley.

 

*Plan: The traverse over to the start of this climb, along the Dinner Ledge crack system is long enough to make fixing and rapping back down to bivy on Dinner Ledge not feasible. Most folks get in a 5.10 shape and do this climb in a long day. If you plan on bivying it is advisable to not bring too much stuff (best to do the climb this way in the heat of the summer, so you could sleep in your puffy jackets w/ sleeping pads) as it is difficult to shuttle your stuff from dinner ledge to the beginning of the route.

 

*Descent: Either hiking over and rappeling Royal Arches(if you're lazy/thirsty as there is a spring at the top and you come out at the Ahwahnee), or hiking down North Dome Gully are equally viable descent options. South Central tops out on a sandy trail that leads to the top of the Column, and it is not easy to hike up, over, and down to the top of the South Face(the rock is crumbly at the top and the summit is tiered in a way that makes it hard to see where the other routes top out) so rapping down the South Face route would be difficult.

 

 

Trip Reports

Trip Reports

History

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