Intro/Strategy

262 The only truly novice bigwall in the Valley, the South Face is incredible. Thin, stopper-eating splitter cracks, only a few of which need to be aided if you can freeclimb 5.10a, abound. South Face is like a favorite book that you can read over and over. The last pitch is a loose gully from which pebbles and small stones can shower down at any time, so wear your helmet even while resting on Dinner Ledge if there are people climbing above).

 

*Plan: Most folks spend a day getting to the climb and climbing to Dinner ledge. If doing South Face in two days you will need to fix one or two pitches off Dinner Ledge. If time allows it can be much more enjoyable to give yourself an extra day for fixing off Dinner Ledge and enjoying the views.

 

*Ledge: Dinner ledge, which has two tiers, is a palace for 6-8, squeezable to 12+.

 

*Descent: Rapping the route has become popular, but is not the best option when there are crowds. It is often very windy in the afternoon which makes rapping difficult. The nice thing about rapping the route is you can leave your bivy gear on Dinner Ledge and rap back down to it, maybe spending an extra night if you have time. The downside is the summit of the Column is an outrageous fin of rock, with sweeping views back beyond Clouds Rest, the Clarks Range, and down the Valley to El Cap; a true spot to savor. The rap route starts from the top anchor of Skull Queen, and raps back to anchors 10 and 9 on South Face, before leaving the South Face route and rapping straight down using two independent rap stations, before reconnecting with the South Face route for the final two raps to Dinner Ledge.

 

*The Elements: South Face is in the Sun most all day, though it is often windy and much cooler in the afternoon.

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Speed Record

01h:19mins
Matt Wilder, Nick Martino
Jun 2002
  • Oct 26, 2015 06h:09mins -- Adam Freund (solo)
    Stopped time at top of YBW topo P11 (tree with slings) when I arrived the second time with all the gear and coiled ropes. Rappelled with one 70m rope using Skull Queen P7, 6 and 5 belay anchors. Left some quick links and tidied up some tat. ~10 hours CTC
  • Oct 20, 2015 10h:51m:09secs -- Adam Freund (solo)
    Solo IAD adventure. Scouting mission for future fun. Was able to rap from the top with one 70m rope, (followed South Face anchors, rap route, went over to Skull Queen P7, P6, and P5 anchors, and then back on SF). Some moderate swinging is required.
  • Oct 13, 2015 2 days -- Amy Bedinghaus, Cary Bedinghaus
    First big wall! Woot!
  • Aug 14, 2015 3 days -- Rachel McCullough, Micah Bisson
  • Jun 2015 03hours -- Brandon Adams, Joe Marley
    Speeding up the column with Joe. Southern man bypass to roof. Great times. Summiting after work!
  • May 28, 2015 2 days -- Steven Tata, Khash
  • Nov 09, 2014 2 days -- Brandon Adams, Flo Li
    Flo's first wall! Awesome bivy on brunch ledge. Climbed southern man variation to kor roof. Stellar weekend!
  • Oct 2014 06hours -- dan moses, David
    Down in time for lunch
  • May 10, 2014 06h:30mins -- Dylan K, Dennis
    southern man variation to bypass kor roof. lead all but the last pitch
  • Mar 09, 2014 2 days -- Andrew Oesterreicher
  • Mar 2014 07hours -- mickey sensenbach, joe marley
    led every pitch in 7 hours!! had a freaken blast! such a great low angle clean line!!
  • Feb 22, 2014 14hours -- Chris Kohler, Justin Cory
  • Jan 26, 2014 08h:12mins -- Adam Freund, Gina
    Great weather. Gina's Bday. First Yosemite big wall!
  • Jan 25, 2014 2 days -- Dylan K, Matt
    first wall
  • Jul 2013 1 day -- Erik Sloan, Roger Putman, Matt Wildman
    Did this route a couple times this summer. So much fun! Still some loose blocks in the chimney!
  • Jul 2013 02h:30mins -- Roger Putnam, Eric Sloan
    After work jaunt. It was our fist time climbing together!
  • Apr 2013 2 days -- Brandon Adams, Alec Zachreson
    The offwidth on top is off route...
  • Mar 15, 2013 1.5 days -- alex peters, Philipp Peters
  • Jan 2013 -- glenn douglass, Zach Winter
  • Sep 2012 09hours -- glenn douglass, Tommy Melon
    Did the route in a casual 9 hour push for Tommy's first wall route since healing from a major climbing fall injury
  • Jul 2012 12hours -- Matt Desenberg, Greg Coit
    No one on the wall. Beautiful weather up high, first wall IAD.
  • May 21, 2012 2 days -- Mike McCarthy, Kyle O'Meara
    Good times on our first wall.
  • Mar 2012 2 days -- Justin Cory, Ryan Cirino
  • Oct 15, 2011 13hours -- Leslie Choong, Vincent Casotti
  • Oct 2011 2.5 days -- Justin Cory, Ryan Cirino
  • Aug 2009 02h:48mins -- Colby Wayment, Andrew McDowell
    Did this before work on a few different occasions that month. Nice way to get the day going.
  • Mar 13, 2009 1 day -- Roger Putnam, Andy Esparza
    Andy's first wall. One long cold march day.
  • Aug 21, 2007 2 days -- Erik Sloan, Brian Paulson
  • May 17, 2006 2 days -- Erik Sloan, Cher Albrecht, Joe Addington, Nat Shultz, Cara Payne
  • Jun 2003 08hours -- Tom Lambert, Theresa
  • May 2003 2.5 days -- Matt de Vaal, Dave Harborne
    1st BW
  • Mar 2003 3 days -- Erik Sloan, Rachel Arst
  • Nov 13, 2002 2 days -- Rachel McCullough, Sam Johnson
  • Aug 1999 2 days -- Jacques Lepesant, David Fessaguet, G Schneider
  • Jul 1998 2 days -- Anthony Lobay, Micah Ledbetter
  • Sep 1994 2 days -- Erik Sloan, Jeff Benowitz
  • Jul 1984 2 days -- Ken Bokelund, Rob foster
  • Oct 1978 2 days -- I P, Mike

Trip Reports

History

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Speed

1. Partner
01h:19mins
Matt Wilder, Nick Martino
Jun 2002