Intro/Strategy

Southern Man is of funkier character than the laidback, mellow South Face. The cracks are occaionaly thin and the rock occasionaly crumbly, but this route is still a classic.  The cruxes are a couple thin piton, camhook, or fixed head moves. Southern Man's fifth belay is in the middle of the sixth pitch of the South Face, under the left leaning arch. The next pitch does just a couple moves on the South Face and heads out left on very thin terrain--many parties report missing this and climbing to the sixth belay on the South Face and then climbing over to rejoin the Southern Man pitch as it is more obvious up higher. Southern Man!

 

*Plan: All of the routes that climb off of Dinner Ledge are commonly climbed via the same strategy: fix high, enjoy hanging on one of Yosemite's best bigwall ledges, and then go for the summit.

 

 

*Ledge: Dinner ledge, which has two tiers, is a palace for 6-8, squeezable to 12+. Most folks spend a day getting to the climb and climbing to Dinner ledge hopefully with time to fix a pitch or two. If time allows it can be much more enjoyable to give yourself an extra day for fixing off Dinner Ledge, and enjoying the views.

 

*Descent: Rapping the South Face route has become popular, but is not the best option when there are crowds. It is often very windy in the afternoon which makes rapping difficult. The nice thing about rapping the route is you can leave your bivy gear on Dinner Ledge and rap back down to it, maybe spending an extra night if you have time. The downside is the summit of the Column is an outrageous fin of rock, with sweeping views back beyond Clouds Rest, the Clarks Range, and down the Valley to El Cap; a true spot to savor. The rap route starts from the top anchor of Skull Queen, and raps back to anchors 10 and 9 on South Face, before leaving the South Face route and rapping straight down using two independent rap stations, before reconnecting with the South Face route for the final two raps to Dinner Ledge.

Trip Reports

Trip Reports

History

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Speed

1. Partner
02h:38mins
Cedar Wright, Jason Smith
Jun 2001