Intro/Strategy

283 The Nose and Salathe are arguably the two greatest bigwall routes in the world. Salathe=yang The Nose=yin. Salathe challenges you to change cracks, bust free moves, and generally use all your climbing skills compared to the straight-in, China-deep cracks of the Nose. Salathe is more the 5.10 free climber's route where the Nose is the 5.8/5.9 free climber's route(except for the first four pitches of the Nose which are tricky at 5.8 C2). The crux is the Hollow Flake, and a few short sections of flaring cracks that take cam hooks or offset nuts and cams.

 

*Plan: Most parties spend the first day climbing Freeblast, descending the fixed lines from Heart Ledge and enjoying a nice meal in the Valley while basking in the glow of climbing one of the greatest routes on earth. The next day is spent hauling back up the fixed lines to Heart and climbing to Long Ledge (or Hollow Flake ledge if you bring a portaledge). Most parties spend 3-4 nights on the wall.

 

*Ledge: The Heart and El Cap Spire are two of the best bivies around. The Block and Long Ledge are sloping but sleepable. Remember to use your haulbag and ropes to make more level sleeping spots.

 

*The Elements: Salathe is in the Sun from mid-morning to sunset.

 

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Speed Record

04h:55mins
Sean Leary, Alex Honnold
Jun 2009

Solo Record

23h:50mins
Steve Schneider
Sep 1992
  • Oct 10, 2015 5 days -- Adam Freund, Gina Edwards
    Awesome route. Recreational pace. Pretty crowded. Day 1/2: Hauled to Heart and rapped down Day 2: Freeblast to Hollow Flake Ledge Day 3: To El Cap Spire Day 4: Second night on El Cap Spire waiting for the upper ledges to clear. Stellar bivy. Day 5: To Long Ledge. The Headwall is mind-blowing! Day 6: To summit in morning and in the Meadow by the afternoon
  • Nov 06, 2014 5 days -- glenn douglass, Greg Coit
    Pre-hauled to heart the first day. On day 2 we Climbed freeblast to Heart and fixed to the top of the Hollow Flake, spending the night on Heart Ledge. Day 3 took us to El Cap Spire and Fixed the first pitch off the the spire. On Day 3 we lead up to Long Ledge for a glorious night before our top out on Thursday, November 6, 2014
  • Jul 2014 2.5 days -- Robbie Brown, AJ
    Headwall is mind blowing. leaked half of our water, Epic
  • Jun 09, 2014 10h:07mins -- Roger Putnam, Eric Bissel
    My first time on the route. The Headwall is, without a doubt, one of the coolest places in Yosemite.
  • Apr 30, 2014 15h:55mins -- Ryan Baker, Josh McClure
    Headwall at sunset was so amazing!
  • Apr 08, 2014 21h:23mins -- Ryan Baker, Miranda Oakley
    Pure bliss, a great climbing partner, a full day of fun to open the season and no one else on the entire stone.
  • Sep 2013 4 days -- Brandon Adams, Alec Zachreson
    Lotsa wide. Messed up ankle on off route fall. Awesome historical route.
  • Jun 2013 3 days -- Matt Desenberg, Bryce Breslin
    Finished after a mulligan in 2012. First trip up the Captain!
  • Sep 2012 3.5 days -- Jarad Stiles, Justin Cory, Scott Rice
  • Sep 2012 3.5 days -- Justin Cory, Jarad Stiles, Scott Rice
  • Sep 10, 2010 3.5 days -- Adam Long, Scott Lapin
  • May 14, 2010 4 days -- Parker Kempf, nathan mlot
  • Aug 20, 2008 3 days -- Erik Sloan, Logan Talbot
    A mid-Summer cruz with a great bro. Salathe is so bitchin camaro! Woot to wild roof dangling and crazy headwall bliss.
  • Sep 2005 4 days -- Matt de Vaal, Dav M
    Spoilt a little with fixed lines up the entire route
  • Jun 2005 4 days -- francesco gherlenda, bruno da ros
    very wild route, for us the autentic troubles are the chimnes
  • Jul 2003 5 days -- Jacques Lepesant, Alik Berg
  • Aug 2002 3.5 days -- Tom Lambert, Theresa
    So out of shape and Theresa forgot her warm clothes. Slept in until 10 every day to get warm (freak August cool wave). Day 3 we only climbed a couple hours - just from El Cap Spire to the Block and hung out most of the day eating and sleeping. Next day got our one early start and blasted to the top.
  • Jun 2002 2.5 days -- Jacek Czyz, Jacek Zaczkowski
    2d 2h from HL
  • Sep 11, 1996 4 days -- Oszkár Nádasdi, Enikő Szentirmai
  • Jun 1988 17hours -- Paul Gagner, Steve "Lucky" Smith
    3rd one day ascent
  • Sep 1987 4 days -- Umberto Villotta, Raffaele Tassoni, Lele Silvestrin
  • Jul 1986 4 days -- Ken Bokelund, Rob foster
  • Sep 1985 3 days -- Paul Gagner, Jim Woodmency
  • Sep 1984 4.5 days -- I P, PL

Trip Reports

Trip Reports

History

Speed

1. Partner
04h:55mins
Sean Leary, Alex Honnold
Jun 2009
1. Solo
23h:50mins
Steve Schneider
Sep 1992 (first one day solo ascent)
14h:01min
Steve Schneider, Rick Cashner
Jun 1989 (first one day ascent)