Intro/Strategy

283 The Nose and Salathe are arguably the two greatest bigwall routes in the world. Salathe=yang The Nose=yin. Salathe challenges you to change cracks, bust free moves, and generally use all your climbing skills compared to the straight-in, China-deep cracks of the Nose. Salathe is more the 5.10 free climber's route where the Nose is the 5.8/5.9 free climber's route(except for the first four pitches of the Nose which are tricky at 5.8 C2). The crux is the Hollow Flake, and a few short sections of flaring cracks that take cam hooks or offset nuts and cams.

 

*Plan: Most parties spend the first day climbing Freeblast, descending the fixed lines from Heart Ledge and enjoying a nice meal in the Valley while basking in the glow of climbing one of the greatest routes on earth. The next day is spent hauling back up the fixed lines to Heart and climbing to Long Ledge (or Hollow Flake ledge if you bring a portaledge). Most parties spend 3-4 nights on the wall.

 

*Ledge: The Heart and El Cap Spire are two of the best bivies around. The Block and Long Ledge are sloping but sleepable. Remember to use your haulbag and ropes to make more level sleeping spots.

 

*The Elements: Salathe is in the Sun from mid-morning to sunset.

 

Trip Reports

Trip Reports

History

Speed

1. Partner
04h:55mins
Sean Leary, Alex Honnold
Jun 2009
1. Solo
23h:50mins
Steve Schneider
Sep 1992 (first one day solo ascent)
14h:01min
Steve Schneider, Rick Cashner
Jun 1989 (first one day ascent)