Speed Climbing

This is a list of all known speed records in Yosemite Valley. Times are reported in hour:minute format except for selected records that are listed in hour:minute:second. First-one-day ascents (FOD) and solo records are listed for selected routes. Please submit corrections, new/unlisted records to erik@yosemitebigwall.com.

2023 Speed Records:

Magic Mushroom, El Capitan 14:37 October 15, 2023 Jim Reynolds, Brandon Adams, Tyler Karow

New Dawn, El Capitan 16:45 October 27, 2023 Tyler Karow Brandon Adams, Miles Fullman

Grape Race, El Capitan 7:46 June 19, 2023 Miles Fullman, Nick Ehman

The Nose, El Capitan 4:39 October 10, 2023  Nick Ehman – Solo

2022 Speed Records:

South Seas, El Capitan 28:55 July 6, 2022 Miles Fullman, Camden Clements, Zack Little

Aquarian Wall, El Capitan 17:50 October 31, 2022 Lance Colley, Cody Hays

2021 Speed Records:

Double NIAD – The Nose, El Capitan 18:30 April 2021 Roger Putnam, Beau Skalley

Iron Hawk, El Capitan 15:37 June 2021 Brandon Adams, Roger Putnam

Sunkist, El Capitan 15:57 May 2021 Lance Colley, Tyler Karow

2020 Speed Records:

Squeeze Play, El Capitan 11:08 October 2020 Lance Colley, Cody Hays

Mescalito, El Capitan 13:46 July 2020 Brandon Adams, Roger Putnam

Muir, El Capitan 12:07 October 2020 Brandon Adams, Roger Putnam, Tom Herbert

Aurora, El Capitan 13:02 October 2020 Brandon Adams, Lance Colley

 

All Speed Records List:

El Capitan:

West Face 1:56:16 November 1999 – Hans Florine, Timmy O’Neil

8:16 June 2000 – Hans Florine (Two El Cap routes in a day solo!)

Mr. Midwest 7:40 July 2001- Hans Florine, Steve Schneider, Jacqueline Florine

Realm of the Flying Monkeys 9:59 July 1999 – Hans Florine, Peter Coward

Mirage 20:02 October 1995 – Steve Gerberding, Dave Bengston, Al Swanson

Lurking Fear 3:04:54 May 2003 – Yuji Hirayama, Nick Fowler

9:20 June 2000 – Hans Florine (Two El Cap Routes in a day solo!)

7:47 September 2014 – Libby Sauter, Quinn Brett (Women’s record)

Lost World, El Capitan 12:25 Sept 2019 Brandon Adams, Rebecca Church

Squeeze Play, El Capitan 11:08 October 2020 Lance Colley, Cody Hays

West Buttress 7:01 April 2013 – David Allfrey, Alex Honnold

20:08 September 1996 – Kevin Thaw FOD

Octopussy 16:08 September 2013 – David Allfrey, Cheyne Lempe, Scott Deputy (FOD)

Never Never Land, El Capitan 11:47 September 2018 Camden Clements, Brandon Adams

Aquarian Wall 17:50 October 31, 2022 Lance Colley, Cody Hays

Horse Chute/Horse Play 20:39 October 2004 – Ammon McNeely, Chris McNamara (FOD)

23 Days October 2013 – Pete Zabrok (solo)

Dihedral Wall 14:06 September 2002 – Steve Gerberding, Hans Florine (FOD /Hammerless)

Excalibur 16:10 September 1998 – Dave Allfrey, Alex Honnold

Salathe 4:55 May 2012 – Alex Honnold, Sean Leary

16:24 June 2018 – Josie McKee, Diana Wendt

3:56 June 2017 – Alex Honnold (Freerider)

20:06 June 2013 – Cheyne Lempe (Salathé)

El Corazon 15:30 September 2014 – Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold

Son of Heart 29:24 September 1993 – Hans Florine, Steve Schneider, Peter Coward

Sunkist 15:57 May 2021 Lance Colley, Tyler Karow

Magic Mushroom 20:02 May 2008 Tommy Caldwell (Free)

Magic Mushroom 14:37 October 15, 2023 Jim Reynolds, Brandon Adams, Tyler Karow

Flight of the Albatross, El Capitan 9:32 September 2017 Roger Putnam, Brandon Adams

The Shield 8:55 May 2018 Roger Putnam, Brandon Adams

Muir Wall 12:00 September 2014 – Alex Honnold, Josh McCoy (Free via Shaft var.)

12:07 October 2020 Brandon Adams, Roger Putnam, Tom Herbert

Triple Direct 5:15 June 2014 – Alex Honnold, Dave Allfrey

16:42 October 2017 – Josie McKee, Quinn Brett, Lauren DeLaunay

17:29 July 2014 – Hans Florine (solo)

Grape Race 7:46 June 19, 2023 Miles Fullman, Nick Ehman

The Nose 1:58:07 May 2018 Alex Honnold, Tommy Caldwell

4:43 October 2014 – Libby Sauter, Mayan Smith-Gobat – Women’s speed record

21:50 August 2016 Miranda Oakley – Women’s Solo Record

4:39 October 10, 2023  Nick Ehman – Solo

12:00 June 2017 – Leah Pappajohn, Jonathan Fluery. NNIAD – First Naked NIAD – First Naked El Cap!

18:30 April 2021 Roger Putnam, Beau Skalley. DNIAD – Double NIAD

Tribal Rite, El Capitan 16:17 October 23, 2016 – Robbie Brown, Brandon Adams

Genesis, El Capitan 20:25 June 2019 Brandon Adams, Chris Gay, Steven Tata

New Dawn16:45 October 27, 2023 Tyler Karow Brandon Adams, Miles Fullman

Reticent Wall 34:57 July 2006 – Ammon McNeely, Dean Potter, Ivo Ninov

Mescalito, El Capitan 13:46 July 2020 Brandon Adams, Roger Putnam

Wall of Early Morning Light 23:43 – September 2004 Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray (FOD)

South Seas, El Capitan 28:55 July 6, 2022 Miles Fullman, Camden Clements, Zack Little

Pacific Ocean Wall 33:02 May 2004 – Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov

North America Wall 9:36 September 1999 – Miles Smart, Timmy O’Neil

Wyoming Sheep Ranch 29:31 October 1999 – Russel Mitrovitch, Eric George, Sean Leary

New Jersey Turnpike 12:24 June 2014 – David Allfrey, Alex Honnold (Started on first 2 pitches of El Niño)

Atlantic Ocean 23:38 August 2004 – Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray

Iron Hawk 15:37 June 2021 Brandon Adams, Roger Putnam

Native Son 23:53 May 2006 – Ammon McNeely, Ivo Nivov

Scorched Earth 22:28 October 2011 – Ammon McNeely, David Allfrey, Skiy DeTray

Aurora 13:02 October 2020 Brandon Adams, Lance Colley

Tangerine Trip 9:28 June 2014 – Alex Honnold, David Allfrey

15:53 October 2002 – Nick Fowler (Solo)

Virginia 13:58 August 2012 – David Allfrey, Scott Deputy

Lost in America 18:04 August 2004 – Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray

KAOS 27:50 December 1999 – Eric George, Sean Leary, Jimmy Hayden

Zenyatta Mondatta 16:53 October 2014 – Skiy DeTray, David Allfrey, Cheyne Lempe

Shortest Straw 12:20 October 2002 – Skiy DeTray, David Allfrey, Cheyne Lempe

Zodiac 1:51 October 2003 – Alex and Thomas Huber

10:52 June 2018 David Allfrey (solo)

Lunar Eclipse 11:22 September 2012 – Alex Honnold, David Allfrey

Born Under a Bad Sign 22:22 October 2002 – Ammon McNeely, Chris Van Leuvan

Plastic Surgery Disaster 21:37 June 2001 – Ammon McNeely, Brian McCray

Bad Seed 19:12 September 1998 – Hans Florine, Brian McCray, Wayne Willoughby (FOD)

Eagle’s Way 7:56 June 2014 – Alex Honnold, David Allfrey

On the Waterfront 17:07 July 1999 – Ammon McNeely, Skiy Detray (FOD)

Pressure Cooker 23:41 September 2004 – Ammon McNeely, Ivo Ninov (FOD)

Waterfall Route, El Capitan 6:29 August 28, 2016 – Roger Putnam, Brandon Adams

Chinese Water Torture 17:15 October 1999 – Steve Schneider, Scott Stowe, Lance Allred

Dark Star 20:09 July 2002 – Steve Gerberding, Scott Cosgrove, Al Swanson (FOD)

East Buttress 1:30 September 1997 – Hans Florine, Abby Watkins

Camp 4 Wall:

Good Ol’ Boy 12:00 May 2014 – Jon Griffin, Ryan Baker, Erik Sloan

Yosemite Falls Wall:

Dante’s Inferno 15:00 October 1995 – Iaschan Rupp and ?

Lost Arrow Direct 7:20 October 2016 – Quinn Brett, Josie McKee

Arches Wall:

Royal Arches 0:52:06 May 2000 – Cedar Wright (Solo, Car-to-Car)

Bulging Puke 6:05 October 2017 – Brandon Adams, Sean Warren


Washington Column:

Southern Man 2:38 June 2001 – Jason Smith, Cedar Wright

South Face 0:53 September 2012 – Alex Honnold, Sean Leary

Skull Queen 2:59 June 2000 – Ammon McNeely, Cedar Wright

Re-Animator 11:56 June 1999 – Chris McNamara, Jacob Schmitz

The Prow 3:01 June 2000 – Jason Smith, Cedar Wright

6:31 October 1999 – Willie Benegas (Solo)

Ten Days After(*) 6:48 July 2015 – Roger Putnam, Justin Jendza(*used Prow Start)

Ten Days After 15:52 July 2015 – Ken Kreis (solo)

Mt. Watkins:

South Face 2:20 June 2012 Alex Honnold (Solo)

Quarter Dome:

Pegasus 6:00 May 1994 – Greg Murphy, Chandlee Harrell (Quarter Dome and Half Dome in a day)

Half Dome:

Regular Northwest Face
1:22 June 2012 – Alex Honnold (Solo)

Direct Northwest Face
8:20 June 1998 – Dean Potter, Jose Pereyra

11:25 September 1999 – Miles Smart (Solo)

Tis-sa-ack 14:00 July 2000 – Jake Whittaker, Sean Kriletich

The Jet Stream 18:50 October 1999 – Eric George, Russ Mitrovitch, Jared Ogden


Porcelain Wall:


Direct North Face
8:00 June 2016 – Joe Marley, Brandon Adams

Liberty Cap:

Southwest Face 6:13 October 2016 – Quinn Brett, Josie McKee

Glacier Point:

Galactic Hitchhiker 2:15 Oct 10, 2015 – Jim Reynolds


Middle Cathedral:

East Buttress 0:29 October 2012 – Sean Leary (Solo)

Leaning Tower:

Roulette 11:50 May 2019 Brandon Adams, Kristoffer Wickstrom

West Face 1:16 October 2012 – Alex Honnold, Sean Leary

3:37 January 2002 – Nick Fowler (Solo)

Wet Denim Daydream
2:55 June 2013 – Alex Honnold, David Allfrey

7:30 May 2002 – Nick Fowler (solo)

2 thoughts on “Speed Climbing

  1. Hey I am curious if lost arrow direct at 7:20 is still accurate?

    1. Hi! Email me any new speed records to erik@yosemitebigwall.com ….. Thanks!

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