Jun 17, 2014
Blood and Coin, Lost Brother
Solo FA. Broke over eight 1/4" drill bits and two 3/8" drill bits. Bullet stone up there. Lots of thin beaking and splitter corner/flake systems. Too many rivets due to features not showing up like they looked like from the road and below for a pitch but otherwise, great climbing on one of the more obvious features you stare at while on the East Face of El Cap! I listened to the Game of Thrones audiobooks the entire time I was up there (books 1-3) so most feature names are based upon that text.
- May 2014 Blue Collar, Ribbon Fall w/ Mucci, Bosque.
Jan 10, 2014
FA of Horns of Jericho (direct). Dirty (exfoliating) crack systems that will clean up once it gets a few ascents. This start doubles the amount of nailing you'll encounter on Jericho, primarily beaks and arrows and avoids the long traversing approach of Jericho's first 3 pitches. Belay 2 is one 3/8" and two 1/4" bolts. Feel free to replace one of the 1/4" bolts with 3/8" if you're feeling randy. Trip report for FA of Horns of Jericho (Direct Line) here:http://www.failfalling.com/ClimbingBlog/tr-first-ascent-horns-of-jericho-direct/
Dec 29, 2013
w/ Ryan Riggans.
Second Ascent of Jericho Loosed a few blocks and cleaned up many of the ledges. Still some loose blocks and sharp edges. Notes: - Hauling to pitch 2 from the ground requires a 70m rope (or approx 225') - "Belay for 50" ledge has few comfortable spots, if bringing portaledges, belay 6 is much better. - When leaving roof on pitch 6 be very careful not to get rope pinched in the corner or rope drag will be prohibitive. Mistakes on topo: - It is a two rope rap from the summit to the 10th belay, not a single rope rap. - You may not be able to do a two rope rap from 8 to 6 (We had a 200' static that came up 15' short. Depending on stretch, two 60m dynamics may differ. - No angles or blades or #3 heads needed on the rack. Trip report for Second ascent here:http://www.failfalling.com/ClimbingBlog/tr-second-ascent-of-jericho-wall-a2-glacier-point-yosemite/
Sep 24, 2013
Tribal Rite, El Capitan Southeast Face
Solo via New Dawn Start. Longest time I've spent on the wall with an added bonus thunder and lightning storm around the 1 week point.
Aug 26, 2013
Afroman, Washington Column East Face
Stellar solo climb, every belay is hanging so if climbing with a partner it would be more comfortable to flag the ledge for the belayer to sit/stand on. VERY windy, ropebags are a must. Starts up around noon and blows hard until late afternoon. Still some loose blocks and though most cracks are clean, when there's munge, there's rainforests of munge and grass. Prepare yourself for battle.
Jun 09, 2013
Zodiac, El Capitan Southeast Face
Route went clean easily for us, but we still heard parties nailing below us while we were still on the route. Later heard more parties nailing while I was Soloing New Dawn to Tribal Rite. Great times though. Flagging a ledge is the best way to keep every belay cushy and comfortable.
Feb 02, 2013
Laughing at the Void, Ribbon Fall
w/ Josh Mucci, Ezra Allee.
First time walling with Ezra and Mucci. (Hooray!) First time out after GF left me. (Booo) Great route, with some awkward that is fun (if you like that sort of thing) and some nailing that isn't blown out yet, We weekend warrior'd the route, fixing Jan 19th weekend and firing Feb 2nd weekend.
May 07, 2012
West Face, Leaning Tower
Slow ascent with bivies at the base, Awhanee, and Dano ledge. Would consider pitch 3 to be crux of the route. fun route in general but felt pitch 4 was awkward both to lead and clean. Free climbing to bolts of pitch 5 can be aided by cam hook, cam hook, hook, cam hook, hook, then thin cams.
Feb 12, 2012
Wet Denin Daydream, Leaning Tower
Fixed to Ahwanee Sat 2/4/12, Blasted Sat 2/11, Topped out Sun night, Descended in 6" snow from overnight winter storm. Pitch 5 heads/beaks section and roof splitter crack was completely clean of fixed gear and so had to place everything myself which was slightly more committing than I expected. Good mental training.