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Neil Chelton

 

Route Log

    2016
  1. Jun 2016 Gulf Stream, El Capitan Southeast Face
    The first 2 'exfoliating' pitches can be avoided by climbing The Footstool and following discontinuous crack systems to join the middle of P4. P5-P7 weave an improbable line through a series of sharp death flakes and expanding cracks. 'Surfing' small blocks is compulsory for the next 10 ascents or so. After P7 the rock becomes more solid and follows some super awesome features. The pitches are hard and sustained (A3 to A4+) to the very final move. I reached the summit on day 16 with cracked ribs in an unfamiliar state of delirious exhaustion.
  2. 2015
  3. Oct 2015 Sea of Dreams, El Capitan Southeast Face w/ Callum. 9 days
    All-time classic.
  4. Sep 2015 Never Never Land, El Capitan Southwest Face w/ Joe Shultz. 9 days
    Our mega-stereo system weighed even more than our 24 case of beer. Still it was good to blast Michael Jackson tunes at full volume for hours every night. There is no longer a missing bolt on pitch 16. Beware of barnacles.
  5. Sep 2015 Pacific Ocean Wall, El Capitan Southeast Face w/ Callum. 7 days
    Some lower pitches have poor anchors. Link 4+5, and 6+7 to avoid them. There is only one pendulum on pitch 4. Rivets are fairly poor throughout the route, but all are still useable. Bring a few cinch-style wire hangers and be prepared to replace rivets. It seems like there is a missing rivet on pitch 23. It is possible to hook and head past this. Save some small cams/nuts for the pitch 25 belay. Island in the Sky is an awesome ledge!
  6. 2014
  7. Oct 2014 Virginia, El Capitan Southeast Face w/ Maria. 9 days
  8. Sep 2014 New Dawn, El Capitan Southeast Face w/ Maria. 9 days
    Lots of ancient rivets, some are becoming difficult to use. Future ascentionists should bring a bolt kit with plenty of rivets.
  9. 2012
  10. Sep 2012 Ned's Excellent Adventure, El Capitan Southeast Face 12 days
  11. 2011
  12. Oct 2011 Reticent Wall, El Capitan Southeast Face w/ Callum. 9 days
  13. Sep 2011 Zenyatta Mondatta, El Capitan Southeast Face w/ Callum. 5 days
  14. Sep 2011 Continental Drift, El Capitan Southeast Face w/ Callum and Pete. 12 days
  15. Jun 2011 Atlantic Ocean, El Capitan Southeast Face w/ Pass the Pitons Pete. 11 days
  16. May 2011 Shortest Straw, El Capitan Southeast Face 9 days
  17. 2010
  18. Sep 2010 Tangerine Trip, El Capitan Southeast Face w/ Callum. 4 days
  19. Sep 2010 Mescalito, El Capitan Southeast Face w/ Callum. 6 days
  20. Aug 2010 Lurking Fear, El Capitan Southwest Face 5 days
  21. 2009
  22. Sep 2009 Zodiac, El Capitan Southeast Face w/ Callum. 4 days
  23. Sep 2009 The Shield, El Capitan Southwest Face w/ Callum. 5 days
  24. 2008
  25. Sep 2008 The Nose, El Capitan w/ Callum. 3 days

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