Dean Miller


Route Log

  1. Sep 2001 Magic and Loss, Lost Brother w/ Ammon Mckneely, Josh Helling. 4 days
  2. 2000
  3. Nov 2000 Magic and Loss, Lost Brother w/ Mark and Phil kahrl, Nick "Rambo" Guinn.
    Took all season. Fixed ropes to belay 8 ( Cool Flare ) and rapped route. Spent as much time hangin in the ledges swilling and partying as we did climbing. mostly shallow flared and thin cracks. A cool 14ft nob lasso move. No hole count, 2 many. I placed 2 chicken bolts on the dissapearing corner pitch ( A4 if you don't clip ) All heads left fixed. Bomber belays. Most take 2 ledges. Lead bolts are 5/16 and ocasional 3/8. Rivets are 3/8 x 1 1/4 some a little work hardened. (Except for a half dozen 1/4inchers at the start of the Sua Sponte pitch). Rambo really wanted to use those 1/4'rs. Crazy hard drilling. Cool rock, great out of the way spot. No carrying water!!
  4. 1998
  5. Sep 1998 Zodiac, El Capitan Southeast Face 8 days
  6. 1997
  7. Sep 1997 Zodiac, El Capitan Southeast Face w/ Pat Spiers. Pitches 11, 12, 13. 9 days
    soloed to zorro roof in 7 days after fixing 2. teamed up and climbed from below Zorro roof to peanut with fellow soloist Pat spiers. he topped out next day, I took rest day on peanut. Topped out solo the following day. not an El cap solo but a great time on a great route. Many good lessons. Improvement's by ASCA really appreciated. Much more beat out and easier than in 91. Slow but ok for a gimp.
  8. 1995
  9. Aug 1995 West Face, Leaning Tower 3.5 days
    2nd Wall. First solo.( all but 5.7 pitch) Had an adventure. A total blast. Ran out of food, water and cigarettes. Did 2 bivies in slings, 1 on Ahwanee.
  10. 1991
  11. Sep 1991 Zodiac, El Capitan Southeast Face w/ Kevin Cox, Tom ?. 4.5 days
  12. 1986
  13. May 15, 1986 The Shield, El Capitan Southwest Face w/ Marcos Couch. 10 days
    My first Wall. First climb longer than a grade IV for my partner. Triple cracks was 5th aid pitch I'd ever led. Dropped 2nd rope from beneath shield roof. Tied lead and 9mm static togeather and rapped down to grey. Couldn't quite reach grey. swung to within 6 inches or so from the wall and let go with my brake hand. dropped about a foot or so. Feet on a good shelf hands on a sloper. freaking scary, but got the extra lead line. Good thing. Main one got caught on a flake. Had to cut it to salvage what we could. Windy as hell a couple of days on the headwall. No rope bags and too dumb to stack the ropes at the anchors. Ran out of everything at the end. But had a Killer time

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