Intro/Strategy

Dante's Inferno is an adventurous, very natural line up one of Yosemite's most scenic walls. Characterized by easier(though a little dirty) aid and some cool free climbing up long crack systems, this is a fun moderate climb. The hurricane force winds that whip across the Falls Wall at night are fully present on this route, meaning you will get wet if you try to climb it too early in the season, and good to bring the portaledge fly even if the weather is good so you can relax out of the wind.

 


*Approach/Descent: The approach starts up a large talus/boulder field(the now defunk Fern Ledge Trail) behind the Valley Fire Station/NPS stables/Search and Rescue office in Yosemite Village. The Fern Ledge trail ends atop Lower Yosemite Falls and from there you can drop your packs and scramble up, down and around a couple hundred feet to some amazing swmming pools--a good place to recharge and filter water halfway up the approach(when the Falls are raging in the Spring this is not an option) before continuing up obvious ledges/sandy trail to the base of the wall. A fun way to approach Lost Arrow is climbing the Sunnyside Bench Route(5.4), just up and left from Jamcrack. You could take your two ropes and rack and do this start to the approach(20-30min faster than walking around and way more fun), drop off your gear at the base of the wall(or fix a couple pitches) and then descend the trail and hike up all your bivy/wall stuff; or you could climb Sunnyside Bench one day and scope the first half of the approach and check out the waterflow and the amazing pools at the top of Lower Falls and see how feasible it is to get(filterable) water there. However you do it, if you split your loads into two this approach is a lot more enjoyable. Allow 3-5 hrs with a heavy pack.

 

Descend the Yosemite Falls Trail.

 

*Plan: Most parties hike up and fix a couple pitches, descending to the pools at the top of the Lower Falls(halfway up the approach trail) to filter water, and bivy at the base. The hurricane force winds that rake the wall at night also hit the base so plan on setting up your ledge and fly. Most parties spend 2-3 days on the wall.


*Ledge: No natural ledges.

 

*The Elements: Falls Wall is often super windy and cold in Spring.

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